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Bad Bananas
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Dancing With Feral Debutantes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 315'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Perin Blanchard (19 Nov 08)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,304
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 21, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Moderate routes to the top on Bad Bananas 1 Wester...

Description 

An enjoyable, moderate route to the top of the Bad Bananas formation. Shares the first pitch and part of the second pitch with Brain Full of Spiders, then climbs the striking headwall to the north of the cone-shaped structure at the west side of the buttress.

P1 (110', 5.9) See Brain Full of Spiders.

P2 (80', 5.4) From the belay, step right and up from the pedestal into a steep gully with two bolts. Sling these two bolts long and climb up onto the platform at the top left of the gully (to the right of the bush). Clip the bolt above with a sling, turn the corner and start traversing left and then up a bit through five bolts (a couple of slings will be helpful). Arrive at the belay between two bushes on a sloping ledge.

P3 (125', 5.7) Follow four bolts up and slightly leftward to the base of the headwall on the left (slinging the fourth and fifth bolts long will help with rope drag). Climb and stem up through an easy, overhanging section on big positive edges, continue through a less-than-vertical section on the same sort of edges, and then step right onto the base of the smoother, continuous-appearing section that leads to the top. The climbing gets a little tougher, but the really intimidating section is easily bypassed. Climbing left of the last smooth section on the face keeps it about 5.7; going just right of the penultimate bolt on the face is about 5.9.

Original Finish (5.7). Arrive at a narrow ledge just below the top, clip the bolt, and make a fun, airy move past the left side overhang on big holds (there is a final bolt right at the top lip, but it isnít really necessary, having started life as a rappel work bolt).

Alternative Finish (5.10c). After the last bolt on the face, climb out the steepest, airiest part of the overhang and pull over the top. There are two bolts (the first has a 24" Frost Power Draw attached).

The belay anchor is about 10 feet east on a shelf of rock about thigh-height.

Rappelling or lowering the last pitch. Note that the distance from the anchors at the bottom of the last pitch to the anchors at the top of the last pitch is approximately 125 feet. This distance is too far to lower or rappel from the anchors using a single rope. (Why rappel or lower the last pitch? Because it's the best pitch and your partner wants to lead it as well).

However, it is possible, using a 70m rope, to rappel or lower from the last bolt on the west lip of the ending overhang. Since it is a single bolt, it's a good idea to back the bolt up to the anchors. Alternatively, you could rappel to the last bolt on the lower-angled part, and the rap from that single bolt to the starting ledge.

Descent 

From the final belay position walk uphill a few feet to the top of the buttress. Walk down a trail northeast until the gully, and then talus-surf to the canyon floor.

Location 

Approach as for the Bad Bananas ďcave". Walk up the sloping ramp to the left of the cave. Belay at the top of the ramp (two bolts for the belayer).

Protection 

Bring enough draws and slings for fourteen bolts. At least two double-length slings and at least two single-length slings are needed for managing rope drag on the first and second pitches, and two single length slings may be helpful on the third pitch.

P1 14 bolts, double ring anchors
P2 8 bolts, two-hanger anchor
P3 14 bolts (+1 superfluous), two-hanger anchor
P3, alternate finish 15 bolts, two-hanger anchor


Photos of Dancing With Feral Debutantes Slideshow Add Photo
At the P3 crux of <em>Dancing with Feral Debutantes</em>. <br /> <br />Photo by John Ross.
At the P3 crux of Dancing with Feral Debutantes. ...
This is where the route moves left onto the final headwall for the best part of the whole route.
This is where the route moves left onto the final ...

Comments on Dancing With Feral Debutantes Add Comment
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By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Nov 21, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The whole route is fun but the last pitch is the best.
By Lee Jensen
Nov 22, 2008

Perin, how about a bit of backgound on the name choice for this route.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 23, 2008

Well, my wife was a debutante...
By Jeff Jones
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Nov 25, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Outstanding!! This was a bit of an adventure as I did not read anything before climbing the route (and Kip was not a lot of help). I did not know where the chains were on P1 and then I missed the split to the left for this route. Kip and I ended up traversing the ledge on Brain to get to the last belay station for this route. The last pitch was much better than expected but I really enjoyed the entire thing.

CLIMB THESE ROUTES!!! They will clean up faster and get better with age.

I did think that for the most part is was easy climbing but there are a couple of spots on P1 that I thought were .10a and one spot on P3 that was at least 5.8-5.9. Long slings are definitely helpful.
By Josh Graham
Aug 7, 2009

Did an inadvertent cool variation today, combined the roof of Good Plantains with the upper face of Dancing.
By Broseph L
From: Provo Canyon, UT
Aug 12, 2009

Make sure to stay on route with these climbs, it is really easy to get mixed up around on the 2nd pitch. Also, watch out for the loose jug on the second pitch of 3/4 climb
By Jonathan Adams
From: Provo UT
Sep 7, 2009

Awesome climb. I really loved it. You just have to watch out for all the loose rocks everywhere. At the belay station at the top of P1 I just about sent a basketball sized boulder down towards my belayer. I stopped it before it fell, but beware of loose rocks and holds all over the place.
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 9, 2009

When you get on these routes be prepared to take your time. You might want to take a small pack with water, descent shoes and a headlamp. I've always come down in the dark! It just takes longer than you think. The last pitch on this one is just simply awesome.
By Aaron Child
Nov 18, 2009

I did the first two pitches of Good Plantains, then hooked onto the last pitch of Dancing and did the 10c variation. Possibly the coolest exposure i've experienced in that canyon, pulling that roof. Props to Perin.
By Nathaniel Holt
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 22, 2012

The 5.10c alternative finish is awesome! I highly recommend doing it to get the most out of the route. Still love pitch 1 as well though.