Dancing Queen 5.11+
| 1,680 page views Good page? (1 like)  |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Chris Kalous, and Jason and Will from Canada. |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | chris Kalous on Nov 6, 2006 |
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No good sizes on this one. Awesome route!
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Description Thin torquing on fingers to hands to OW. The OW is pretty cool with some stacking required, but the crux is the start. Kinda bouldery. I would give it another star if it was longer.
Location A splitter start on an undercut wall on a prow. Right of all the routes in the book just a minute or two. Before Time and Learning to Fly.
Protection #0 TCU to (old) 4.5 and 5 camalot (One each on the daddy sized is fine).
what a great climb i love dancing queen's
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| Comments on Dancing Queen |
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By claramie From: Boulder, CO Nov 25, 2009
| cool route! blew a foot right after I got that first finger lock and somehow stayed on without losing the finger. the OW at the top is fun too! Every route we did on The Wall this day went through all sizes with the crux on small gear. So Fun! |
By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ Oct 24, 2010
| Don't underestimate the techy crux beginning. The foot holds may be big, but can you use them wisely? Awesome cranking. |
By slim Dec 4, 2012 rating: 5.11c
| such a good route - black alien to #5 camalot, gives you a little taste of everything. |
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