Thin torquing on fingers to hands to OW. The OW is pretty cool with some stacking required, but the crux is the start. Kinda bouldery. I would give it another star if it was longer.
A splitter start on an undercut wall on a prow. Right of all the routes in the book just a minute or two. Before Time and Learning to Fly.
#0 TCU to (old) 4.5 and 5 camalot (One each on the daddy sized is fine).
what a great climb i love dancing queen's
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 25, 2009
cool route! blew a foot right after I got that first finger lock and somehow stayed on without losing the finger. the OW at the top is fun too! Every route we did on The Wall this day went through all sizes with the crux on small gear. So Fun!
|By JJ Schlick|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 24, 2010
Don't underestimate the techy crux beginning. The foot holds may be big, but can you use them wisely? Awesome cranking.
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
such a good route - black alien to #5 camalot, gives you a little taste of everything.