BETA PHOTO: Nearing the undercling where the meat of the probl...
On the steep side of the boulder, Dancing Outlaw goes up the left side of the rib using a couple of good slopers, crimps, and an incut. Muscle your way into the powerful undercling and up to the lip. Move left on a couple of poor slopers to the arete, and top out just left of the arete.
One word of caution: on the hueco undercling, don't crank on the lip of the hueco; it flexes a lot and there are other spots that are just as good.
In many ways this is THE classic climb at the Brickyard - is there a move on this problem that isn't awesome?
If you're facing to the ocean, this problem is on the right half of the Brickyard on the north side of a boulder. It is just to the left of Smooth Criminal.
Ok, so Debra is harder. But it seems that what you're trying to say is that Dancing Outlaw isn't V8. My previous comment was to clarify that Dancing Outlaw is confirmed at the grade. Debra has seen, what, maybe two ascents?
As far as Grotesque Old Woman, since the start hold broke many years ago, it's harder than it was, but I still don't think it's as hard as Dancing Outlaw.
And about Cradlerock Style, yeah I've done it (it's my problem) and yeah it's hard. Last time I checked, unless your last name is Ondra, V7 is hard. But you're frigging crazy if you think that it's as hard as the Outlaw!
And get rid of that Edwards guide and replace it with a proper guidebook!
By Trevor V. From: Santa Barbara, Ca May 18, 2012 rating: V8-7B
I not trying to say Dancing Outlaw is not V8, I was thinking Debra was closer to V9. I think the Old Women was just hard for me compared to Outlaw, so I gave them the same grade. Anyways the difference is small and does not really matter. I was just interested in talking about it.
I was also not trying to say V7 is not a hard grade in regard to Cradlerock Style. I was thinking that the first move off the crimp rail seemed like one of the harder single moves I had done at the yard. I felt like it was a pure strength move (bad beta maybe?) that is harder than v7. After that it is much easier. Just my thoughts.
To toss a little extra fuel on the fire, I was ultra stoked to send this for my first time on a particularly chilly Mothers Day (shoutout Mom!), and before this I hadn't 'truly' (by boulder purist standards) sent V7. Then again, I've put drastically more effort into Outlaw than say, Mister Witty or Grotesque (done all the moves), and have seen countless videos/betas worked. The aesthetics, movement and style of Outlaw draw you in and beckon to be climbed. Using Jeff's suggestion of style ratings, it's off the the charts. Ratings around here seem to be variably dependent on so many factors, from crimps to slopes to heat and humidity.
Regardless of grade (the least interesting part), the climb is downright classic SB. My biggest bouldering achievement to date, and I say that proudly. I'll sure as hell get out there and do it again to confirm that grade so we can sleep easy ;)
And cheers to Bob, without whom these sends wouldn't have been possible.
I believe Outlaw is lots of fun and a supernice line (with a sketchy topout) but I can't say much about it being v8 or not since it was my first (and so far only) v8 I've sent. But I must say that grotesque old woman is at least as hard.. and when it comes to Debra I don't get close to matching on that crimp.
I don't think anyone here is talking badly about dancing outlaw, or questioning it being V8 or not, but just trying to say that it sure does feel quite easy on a cold day when you're not sweating off those slopers, and that grotesque old woman should be bumped up to v8.. It's all subjective guys, let's just be happy there are some hard climbs in SB to do ;)
Ah, after finally sending this a time or two more, along with some of the other V7s in the area (Soot Patrol and Grotesque Old Woman) I feel I have a better sense of the grades, and it all seems pretty spot on. Grotesque feels hard all the times you don't hit, but when it connects it's not so bad, so a hard 7 seems right. Soot is maybe on the easier side of 7, though awkward. And Outlaw definitely feels different depending on the temps/conditions.
All in all, I'm back at my same old sentiment; regardless of the grade, Dancing Outlaw ROCKS! And now I wanna try Super Double Buzz with a direct exit (straight up at big slope) as it seems like a good, straight line from the bottom and is comprised of nearly 100% slopes. Sweet!
P.S. Mr. Witty is hard :)
Edit: The undercling recently broke on this one. I guess the positive side is that the undercling seems to be in a solid stable condition now. But instead of the nice rounded edge, it's much sharper now. Haven't reclimbed it yet, so can't say if it changes much (probably just sharper), but I'll get on it soon and see how it feels...
I might take back my last statement and venture to say that this guy has gotten a bit easier since the lip of the hueco broke. Since the wall of the hueco is a little thinner it seems easier to grab and move off of for the big move. Any opinions?
Seems to me that if the undercling has broken then it could only make the move from it easier, since you'd be closer with your hands and less scrunched up with your feet. Don't know how much broke off, but if it was only an inch then that would be a pretty significant difference. Bummer.
I have been doing the problem quite a bit lately so there's definitely the potential that I'm biased but I'd be curious to see what others think. Either way the problem is no less classic than it's always been