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Dancing Madly Backwards 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: First Lead: Dave Groth, 1984
Page Views: 3,910
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 11, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Ryan "Jungle Dog" Strong pulls down on the "slimps...

Description 

Dancing Madly Backwards is a great route to try if 5.9's are starting to get less challenging. There's good friction on the sandstone, and the wall isn't quite vertical.

Start the route below a rather large bulge. Climb up under the bulge and work your way right and up to the left end of the obvious roof. Traverse right under the roof using underclings and foot smearing. Once the roof runs out reach up to find small holds (crux 1). Stand up and over roof. Continue up to the shallow dihedral. The last few moves are on small holds (crux 2). A delightful climb!

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Dancing Madly Backwards Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan "Jungle Dog" Strong gets the last good gear before the top out moves on Dancing Madly Backwards.
Ryan "Jungle Dog" Strong gets the last good gear b...
Rhoads exiting the roof. <br /> <br />Photo by: Paul Campbell
Rhoads exiting the roof.

Photo by: Paul Campbell
Burt Preston working his way up Dancing Madly Backwards.
Burt Preston working his way up Dancing Madly Back...
Jan Brown working on the roof of DMB.
Jan Brown working on the roof of DMB.
Dave Groth on the first lead
Dave Groth on the first lead
All zippered up. Rhoads nearing the top. <br /> <br />Photo by: Paul Campbell
All zippered up. Rhoads nearing the top.

Photo by...
Tracy Brandt leading above the roof crux. August, 2003.
Tracy Brandt leading above the roof crux. August, ...
Jan Brown on the lower section of Dancing Madly Backwards.
Jan Brown on the lower section of Dancing Madly Ba...
Jan Brown standing at the start of Dancing Madly Backwards
BETA PHOTO: Jan Brown standing at the start of Dancing Madly B...
Rhoads gets in some decent gear. <br /> <br />Photo by: Paul Campbell
Rhoads gets in some decent gear.

Photo by: Paul C...
traversing the underclings on a beautiful fall afternoon.
traversing the underclings on a beautiful fall aft...
Andy Hansen on pulling over the right side of the roof on Dancing Madly Backwards. 10/17/2009
Andy Hansen on pulling over the right side of the ...
Higher up on the climb. Krzysztof Gorny, August '03.
Higher up on the climb. Krzysztof Gorny, August '0...
Nick Rhoads leading "Dancing Madly Backwards Direct" 5.11a R <br /> <br />Photo by: Paul Campbell
Nick Rhoads leading "Dancing Madly Backwards Direc...
Nick Rhoads pulling the crux move on "Dancing Madly Backward Direct" <br /> <br />Photo by: Paul Campbell
Nick Rhoads pulling the crux move on "Dancing Madl...
Dancing Madly Backwards, 10b
Dancing Madly Backwards, 10b

Comments on Dancing Madly Backwards Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 27, 2011
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 25, 2002

dancin madly backwards is at the "old" sandstone area
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 26, 2002

First lead by Dave Groth.
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Mar 23, 2002

I just got an email from an anonymous person saying the first lead ascent of this climb was done by Steve Sangdahl. I don't want to start any fights, so if the person who sent the email would like to post a comment to back up their claim, please do!
By Anonymous
Mar 28, 2002

The first lead of this was definitely by Dave Groth.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

The gear on DMB is actually very solid. I led it this summer after leaving the Lake for a while and forgetting all the beta, and the climb accomodated my fiddling in the wrong pieces of gear. It is strange to lead a route at the Lake that is not completely wired into oblivion.

Double ropes are helpful because of the wandering nature of the climb, but the cruxes are very well proteced by bigger gear(#2 and #3 camalots). If the leader can stomach some easy runout climbing ~5.6 for 10 feet or so at the start and after the roof, and if the leader knows how to use double ropes, this climb is a very safe, enjoyable 5.10 lead.
By Leo Hski
Apr 28, 2004

If anyone cares, Tommy D did the first ascent, and Dave Groth did the first lead sometime around 1983-84.

Leo Hermacinski
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 6, 2004

I just lead this route after going at it 3 times on top rope. I was pumped towards the end before the 2nd crux and put my weight on pro just before the final moves.There was a bit of rope drag, so I gave myself big slack to finish last thin moves.

Overall:0. Good intro into 10s in the park. Except 2 moves in 2 places, it is mostly like 5-8 - 5.9 on quartzite. Those moves are far easier than the Gargantua crux (also 10b in this area). 1. The double rope is very useful on this climb (I used single).2. Be careful on lead as the huge flake under roof actually moves!!3. The route is not probably drawn correctly on the photo here. It actually goes more right exactly after the right end of roof to join the obvious crack running leftwards to the top. Going this way seems easier.
By goatboywonder
Sep 29, 2004

I was wondering if the crack above and right of the roof was considered "in". It looks like the natural line but I was told that it wasn't part of the climb. Any comments?
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Sep 30, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

As long as you don't go into Curving Crack, I think everything else is legal. The crack above the roof is not part of any other climb, and is the natural line of DMB, in my opinion.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 26, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is one of the best routes up here.has a differnt feel to it.
By Dylan B.
Apr 29, 2006
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A second hold has been broken off of this climb this spring (the first was freshly broken last spring). There are now two, bright clean spots on the first ten feet of the ascent. It doesn't really effect the climb, sinde the bottom is so simple anyhow; but it's a reminder to folks not to climb on wet sandstone early in the spring.
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Oct 31, 2006

I am pretty sure I did the first ascent(first lead that is) in 84. I asked around at that to make sure it was accurate.

Dave Groth
By Ian Schmit
Apr 24, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A stellar lead with gear right when you want it. Avoid all gear on the lower portion of the route as I'm fairly sure it wouldn't hold a fall anyway. The final move (crux for me) is really fun on the sharp end. I'd toproped this in the middle of last summer and lead it just recently without any gear beta or really remembering the moves. A competent 5.10 leader on the quartzite should have no trouble dispatching this climb. Get out there and lead it.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 24, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I think this route is a good lead, but a heads-up one at that. The rock at the bottom is pretty sketchy (a big flake broke off recently) and Ian's right that gear would be worthless at the start. Once the roof is reached, the gear is good, but I think the climbing up to the roof gives this route a PG 13 rating.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This thing is PG13 on TR if you take the bats living in the underclings under the roof into account...
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Ahhh, I think it bit me!!!
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

It did bite me!
By Tradoholic
Jul 2, 2009

There is a direct version to this that starts directly below the right side of the roof. Book says 5.11a.
By Tradoholic
Jul 4, 2009

The direct has been led. A small Metolious Master Cam to start and a very good #1 a few feet higher to the left, then run it out to the roof. The holds on "The High Life" are off. Using them would take in a different direction anyway. Just stick to the face on some slopey crimps and little pockets. Two out of four stars for this variation. 5.11a R due to the decking potential going for the good gaston into the roof.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I extend the "Congrats" to you as well Nick! Nice lead.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

My second edition guidebook says 11c for the direct.

Is 11a from the new third edition?
By Tradoholic
Jul 13, 2009

You're right, book says 11c. I think it's more like 11b maybe. 11a would be fair for DL standards though.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Mar 9, 2010

Dancing Madly Backwards is a song by one of my favorite groups of all time - Captain Beyond.

I have one of the original copies of this album with the 3-d picture on the front.
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Aug 27, 2011

Led the direct. Have to disagree again, Nick. I'd give it an X, as both cams I got (yellow C3 and #1 Met) were shallow enough to maybe pull. Though maybe the crashpads brought it down to R...