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 ADVANCED
Southeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alvin T 
Barfy's Favorite T 
Black Dog T 
Central Chimney T 
Dancing Ladies  T 
Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 
Greatest Route T 
Inner Mountain Flame T,S 
Jetstream Deluxe T 
Judy's Jaunt T 
Keep the River Free T 
Le Petit Francais T 
Misty Mountain Hop T 
Mr. Gone T 
Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 
Rites of Passage T 
Simon T 
Theodore T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dancing Ladies  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pat and Vickie McGrane
Page Views: 1,180
Submitted By: Kevin Landolt on Mar 6, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Dancing Ladies is a delightful climb up the slab between Central Chimney and Black Dog. Climb one approach pitch up Central Chimney (5.4) to a broad ledge sporting a large tree. Move right past the tree along a narrowing ledge, and set a belay near the ledge's end. Climb up the obvious crack, moving left and back right at times to link discontinuous seams and cracks (5.7). Climb easier slab to the top (5.5 - 4th).

Dancing Ladies offers similar low-angle face/seam climbing to Judy's Jaunt. Truly an enjoyable outting!


Location 

This is in the Central Chimney Area.


Protection 

1 set of cams to 2 inches and 1 set of nuts.



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By BlahBlahBlah
Mar 13, 2011

Kevin, did you rate this with humility in your heart?

By Barry Collins
Nov 12, 2013

We modified the route by climbing the first crack to the right of Central Chimney. My girlfriend plugged a #3 cam low in the crack, then ran it out on face holds left of the crack, then regained the crack to the tree. A much better start than Central Chimney, I'd call it a heady 5.7 on the face. Solid 3 stars with this more direct start IMHO.

Climb the left butt cheek.
Climb the left butt cheek.