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Shovel Point
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Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 5,926
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 7, 2006

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Divesh Bhatt on Dance.

Description 

This is a large slab that contains four different variations listed from climbers left to right. Don't forget your camera, this route allows great views of the climber below set against the turquoise backdrop of Lake Superior. Because of its high quality, closer proximity to the parking lot, and variability in difficulty, this is one of the most popular climbs at Shovel Point. #1 (5.7) climb the inside corner. #2 (5.8) climb the left side of the face using the small crack and other hold. #3 (5.10b/c) climb the middle of the face using smaller holds. #4 (5.10d) climb the right side of the face if you are lucky enough to find any holds. I usually set up one rope to climb #1 and #2 and another rope to climb #3 and #4.


Location 

This route is located about 15 yards past the wooden lookout where Palisade Head should be visible.


Protection 

Park service installed enormous bolts, please use these to say the trees whenever possible. You can also fit a brown tri-cam in the drilled test holes. As with all Shovel Point routes bring a lot of webbing.



Photos of Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries Slideshow Add Photo
Nodin on sugar plum
Nodin on sugar plum
Justin Chapman and Alicia Hudelson on two of the variations of Dance of the Sugar Plump-Faeries.
Justin Chapman and Alicia Hudelson on two of the v...
Picture of the large bolts found at the top of the route.  3 sets of bolts along Shovel Point.  About 20 ft or so from the edge, so bring lots of webbing or chord.
BETA PHOTO: Picture of the large bolts found at the top of the...
Anna Schrage on a side view of Dance of the Sugar Plump-Faeries
Anna Schrage on a side view of Dance of the Sugar ...
Many route options exist and several nice landings to start from occur. The further you deviate to the right the harder it gets. Happy smearing.
BETA PHOTO: Many route options exist and several nice landings...
Repel to the start <br />Thomas Durfee getting off repel <br />Going further to the climbers right the rating gets more & more difficult <br />cdurf's foot
BETA PHOTO: Repel to the start
Thomas Durfee getting off repel...
Scott on "dance"
Scott on "dance"
Trying the 5.8 variation.
BETA PHOTO: Trying the 5.8 variation.
Rob - Dancing down. Gives a pretty good picture of three routes that diverge off the main.
Rob - Dancing down. Gives a pretty good picture of...
So everyone has the same shot.  Big Deal.  It's because it's so picturesque!
So everyone has the same shot. Big Deal. It's be...
Comments on Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This has been a popular climb for at least 2 decades. A great slab with a great setting and backdrop- Regardless of the grade, it is worth climbing. Just get there early in the AM to beat the boyscout troups to it!

By Brian Weinstein
Jul 15, 2007

A classic North Shore pitch.

By seagreene
Apr 15, 2014

Using the 2 giant bolt anchors, climb the climber's left dihedral for a 5.7, move out towards the face for 5.8-9 (finishing near the dihedral), or move all the way to very thin cracks on climber's right for a 10+ face climb.