This is a large slab that contains four different variations listed from climbers left to right. Don't forget your camera, this route allows great views of the climber below set against the turquoise backdrop of Lake Superior. Because of its high quality, closer proximity to the parking lot, and variability in difficulty, this is one of the most popular climbs at Shovel Point. #1 (5.7) climb the inside corner. #2 (5.8) climb the left side of the face using the small crack and other hold. #3 (5.10b/c) climb the middle of the face using smaller holds. #4 (5.10d) climb the right side of the face if you are lucky enough to find any holds. I usually set up one rope to climb #1 and #2 and another rope to climb #3 and #4.
This route is located about 15 yards past the wooden lookout where Palisade Head should be visible.
Park service installed enormous bolts, please use these to say the trees whenever possible. You can also fit a brown tri-cam in the drilled test holes. As with all Shovel Point routes bring a lot of webbing.
|Comments on Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This has been a popular climb for at least 2 decades. A great slab with a great setting and backdrop- Regardless of the grade, it is worth climbing. Just get there early in the AM to beat the boyscout troups to it!
Apr 15, 2014
Using the 2 giant bolt anchors, climb the climber's left dihedral for a 5.7, move out towards the face for 5.8-9 (finishing near the dihedral), or move all the way to very thin cracks on climber's right for a 10+ face climb.