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Routes in Block Tower
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Bungi Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dance of Chance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Desperado T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Hurt Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mister Mantle T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Queer Bait T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sex Dwarf T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wrist Never Sleeps T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Peter Hubbel, Mike Smith, Tom Bohanon, Feb. 1983 |
| Page Views: | 1,835 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Eggleston on Dec 15, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This is a nice route on typical South Platte granite. It is mostly crack climbing, including offwidth with some face here and there.
P1. Start up a crack in the left-facing flake, and continue straight up another crack to a ramp/crack that trends left to right. Either belay here or follow the ramp up to a big ledge below a large, offwidth corner. You can make the start harder by climbing a crack a few feet to the right of the flake at the bottom. This start joins the other start about halfway up the flake.
P2/3. This will either be the left to right trending ramp or the off-width depending on whether or not you combined pitches. For the offwidth, grovel up placing #3 and #4 Camalots. End on a ledge next to a big block on the left. The new #4s fit well. The old style is a bit too big (as I found out). This is the 3rd pitch of Queer Bait.
P3/4. Climb up onto the block and move left to a thin crack in the overhang. Power up the crack to the face above, and climb to a bolt. From here, it gets tricky. From the bolt, move left and slightly down into a chimney. You can set a semi-hanging belay here from mid-sized cams. When I did the route, there was a leaver biner clipped to the bolt. Using it, your second can have a toprope for the downclimbing and can then untie and pull the rope once at the belay.
P4/5. Climb up cracks in the chimney to the summit of the tower.
Pulling the roof on pitch 3/4 is the crux although some might feel that the offwidth is cruxy as well.
P1. Start up a crack in the left-facing flake, and continue straight up another crack to a ramp/crack that trends left to right. Either belay here or follow the ramp up to a big ledge below a large, offwidth corner. You can make the start harder by climbing a crack a few feet to the right of the flake at the bottom. This start joins the other start about halfway up the flake.
P2/3. This will either be the left to right trending ramp or the off-width depending on whether or not you combined pitches. For the offwidth, grovel up placing #3 and #4 Camalots. End on a ledge next to a big block on the left. The new #4s fit well. The old style is a bit too big (as I found out). This is the 3rd pitch of Queer Bait.
P3/4. Climb up onto the block and move left to a thin crack in the overhang. Power up the crack to the face above, and climb to a bolt. From here, it gets tricky. From the bolt, move left and slightly down into a chimney. You can set a semi-hanging belay here from mid-sized cams. When I did the route, there was a leaver biner clipped to the bolt. Using it, your second can have a toprope for the downclimbing and can then untie and pull the rope once at the belay.
P4/5. Climb up cracks in the chimney to the summit of the tower.
Pulling the roof on pitch 3/4 is the crux although some might feel that the offwidth is cruxy as well.
Location
Dance of Chance starts about 15' left of Queer Bait. Look for a small inset area next to a left-facing flake and crack.
To descend, walk off towards northeast towards CP and down the slope to the base.
To descend, walk off towards northeast towards CP and down the slope to the base.
Protection
A standard rack up to a #4 Camalot. Extra 3-4" cams are useful. There is one bolt on pitch 4.
Per Anunta Anunta: a #5 may be useful.
Per Anunta Anunta: a #5 may be useful.
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