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Nip and Tuck
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Surprising Slab 


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Chris Taylor & Charly Oliver, 1980
Season: Spring/Summer/Fall
Page Views: 2,405
Submitted By: Rob Kepley on May 5, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Begin at a west-facing slab just right of Surprising Slab. Climb up low-angled rock with good edges for feet to a break in the roof above.

Continue through the roof using a good jug for your right hand, then slightly left and finally right to the chain anchors.


This is about 10.5 miles up canyon on the right side of road. It requires about a 1 minute approach. You can easily scramble up to the top using the steep gully between Nip and Tuck to set up a TR.


Not much...this route would be a serious lead for the 5.6 climber. Better just to TR it.

Photos of Dan-D-Line Slideshow Add Photo
Going for the roof.
Going for the roof.
Steve Thomas at the anchor, having finished his lead of Dan-D-Line.
Steve Thomas at the anchor, having finished his le...
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By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

The more difficult section of the climb, the roof and above, has reasonable pro opportunities. Study the route from the bottom and plan accordingly. While perhaps not a good beginner 5.6 trad lead, I rather liked the "tricky" pro-placing scenario. For that reason, the climb is a good mental test at the grade.

By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R

Instead of going to the break in the roof, pull the roof. There is a good undercling and then good holds over the top... adds some fun to an easy line (pulling the roof directly is probably still only 5.7).

By Yair Horowitz
Aug 12, 2011

Found a short strap with a snap-buckle at the bottom of this route. Doubt anyone would take the trouble to get it back, but if it's yours and you want it, message me to claim.