Damned if You Don't  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 120 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Scott Keller, June 1998 Submitted By:  John Steiger on May 27, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Damned if You Don't starts with a boulder-problem crux past two bolts followed by 5.10 maybe 5.10+ climbing with great position and fun movement, albeit on somewhat suspicious rock. As Tenesmus said in his post on the Dam Wall page, “It has a hard start with a killer deadpoint or nice edgy static moves and then loads of steep movement. Its really fun, quick to get to and worth repeating.” Clipping the first bolt is a little attention-getting, but not bad (the truly risk adverse can use a stick clip). Some call this 12b, but it's easier than Big in Japan and Eye in the Sky. (Date of FA from rc.com).

Location 

Right-most bolt line on Dam Wall, with the first bolt maybe 25 feet high on a relatively smooth looking face.

Protection 

A dozen draws if I remember right, but take a few extra to be safe. Best to avoid clipping the third to last bolt (on the slab under the finishing overhang) to avoid rope drag, but bring a long runner if you think you’ll want to. We used a single 70 meter rope to lower/rap to the ground; a 60 meter rope is probably (barely) adequate.