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Dam Wall
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Dam Fine Cracks T 
Damned if You Do  S 
Damned if You Don't S 
Day as Night S 
Fall Equinox S 
Shale for Sale T 

Damned if You Don't 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott Keller, June 1998
Page Views: 584
Submitted By: John Steiger on May 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Damned if You Don't starts with a boulder-problem crux past two bolts followed by 5.10 maybe 5.10+ climbing with great position and fun movement, albeit on somewhat suspicious rock. As Tenesmus said in his post on the Dam Wall page, “It has a hard start with a killer deadpoint or nice edgy static moves and then loads of steep movement. Its really fun, quick to get to and worth repeating.” Clipping the first bolt is a little attention-getting, but not bad (the truly risk adverse can use a stick clip). Some call this 12b, but it's easier than Big in Japan and Eye in the Sky. (Date of FA from rc.com).

Location 

Right-most bolt line on Dam Wall, with the first bolt maybe 25 feet high on a relatively smooth looking face.

Protection 

A dozen draws if I remember right, but take a few extra to be safe. Best to avoid clipping the third to last bolt (on the slab under the finishing overhang) to avoid rope drag, but bring a long runner if you think you’ll want to. We used a single 70 meter rope to lower/rap to the ground; a 60 meter rope is probably (barely) adequate.


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By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The start was the hardest part for me and the rest was just endurance. If you screw up the start at the first bolt then it's gonna hurt.
By madskates
From: SLC
May 3, 2014

Can repel it with a 60 meter. It's just a little close. The beginning is the crux and the rest is just steep climbing to add to the pump that you already have. Nice little ledge to rest on though before you hit the last two bolts to anchors. Also, as of 5/2/14 there are two quick links before and after the crux on this climb, so if you are afraid of leaving gear don't be!