Damnation Crack 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | FA John Rupley 1957 FFA TM Herbert, Ed Cooper 1960 |
| Season: | Spring through Fall |
| Submitted By: | Karsten on Mar 27, 2006 |
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Phase 1 of Damnation Crack. Pumpy and slick layba...
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Description A great climb up a widening crack. Begin with a hand size crack that widens to offwidth and then to chimney. The crux comes in the first 30ft but runnouts in the chimney keep things interesting. Top out on Jello tower.
Location Climb up a trail on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to upper castle rock and logger's ledge. The route goes up the wide crack/chimney that separates the main wall from Jello Tower on its west side.
Protection Cams to #4 camalot but don't forget the small gear for placements in the chimney.
More of the initial crack of Damnation. Photo Jak...
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Final squeeze moves near the top of Damnation.
Jak...
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| Comments on Damnation Crack |
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By Blitzo
Sep 13, 2006
| A great climb! |
By Drederek
Jun 30, 2008
rating: 5.9
| Closer to a 100' to the chains atop Jello Tower but you can rap from them down the other side with a 50m rope. |
By Erroneous
Jun 25, 2010
| The "correct" finish is actually to the anchor on the face to the left of the top of Jello Tower. Great climb! |
By andyf
From: Tacoma, WA
Jun 26, 2010
| What makes this the "correct" finish? Per Beckey's 1965 Guide to Leavenworth Rock Climbing Areas: "...climb 6 feet until the crux is passed (5.7-5.8). Another 10 feet reaches the top of the tower."
Not that it matters a flip where you choose to end up, but the anchor to the left was established for Dan's Dreadful Direct. Again per Beckey (1965): "About 100 feet up, just above and to the left of Jello Tower, a hanging belay was established from one of the bolts." |
By Snodawg
Jun 30, 2010
| What a great climb, been waiting to do this climb and have now done it. Took a number 5 up with me and it was a huge waste. |
By Daniel Coltrane
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| Definetly an "Old School" 5.9. Classic through the chimney section. |
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2012
| Very fun route! Old school climbing for sure but lots more pro besides just protecting the big crack. Not that either way is "right" but I belayed on the left side wall at 100'. This works great as you are on ring bolts, it's right at 100' and you can watch your partner climb the whole pitch. Continue to the top or rap with a 60m and have the TR set up for a quick lap on the 20 foot 5.10 finger crack. |
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