A thin crack starting from the ledge after the first rappel from the summit of Earth Angel.
You'll find yourself aiding it if your rope gets stuck when you pull the rappel line. :)
Start about 10' left of the rap anchor. Curse several times. Aid up several moves to a big, angular, irritating outward flaring crack. Work through the crack and pull over a bulge. The difficulties back off a bit ... free a couple of 5.9 moves. Place a couple sketchy pieces and aid a few more moves. Pull on to a ledge with a big block. Untangle your rope from it and descend.
Doubles of small cams, small to medium wires.
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Jun 3, 2009
Ahhhh, good times.
|By Paul Davidson|
Jun 9, 2009
One of the times we did this climb, John Fleming prusiked the stuck rope while protecting in the crack in case of failure. The stuck rope was just a simple U shape in the very end of the rope jammed in the crack. And to think that John was going to prusik up the rope without the belay. Pretty amazing that it never pulled for the whole prusik up.
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 9, 2009
hey paul! i had an autobloc around the stuck rope as some extra pro (but didn't use it for forward progress!). that block is a pain in the neck, isn't it? for the sake of good fun, i've added you and john to the FA list. :)
out of curiosity, how many other people have aided this crack to get their rope back? anyone freed it?