Damn Jam 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Dick Webster, Bill Briggs and Woody Stark, February 1967 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jul 12, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Wall (Right Side) with a climber on Chalk Up A...
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Description The rightmost portion of The Wall (where Chalk Up Another One is located) is split into two by a steep chimney system.
Tackle the obvious chimney, which is wide enough to allow upward progress but not so narrow as to make it overly difficult. Protection is found near the back of the crack, so if placing gear take some runners to keep the rope drag in check.
This is a good introductory style chimney to get comfortable on wider cracks as it affords good protection and elementary wide crack skills. The descent is found about 100' to the right of this climb and involves downclimbing and tunneling under some blocks.
Protection Gear to 4"
By Woody Stark
Jun 8, 2004
rating: 5.7
| We should have rated this 5.7. This route could be used as a novice leader's "starter" jam/chimney. Awkward here and there, a little thought needs to be applied for pro placement, and a bit thin at the top. |
By Woody Stark
Feb 5, 2005
rating: 5.7
| I climbed this again today after many years; I followed using it for leading experience for a moderately easy jam crack route. It's great for a novice leader. |
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Mar 15, 2008
| Soloed this back in January. This is an old school 5.6 and is a real eye opener! Good route for developing chimney technique. Don |
By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Feb 10, 2012
rating: 5.6
| I love the Damn Jam! Make your friends climb it.
You can climb it safely with gear to BD#3. The anchor requires a 2 and a 3 (or a couple 3's). A BD#1 fits perfectly in a slot right before the top "runout." It's not really runout, but without something in that slot it would be more exciting. |
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