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 ADVANCED
The Wall - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chalk Up Another One T 
Damn Jam T 
Good To The Last Drop T 
Pumping Ego T 

Damn Jam 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dick Webster, Bill Briggs and Woody Stark, February 1967
Page Views: 992
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: The Wall (Right Side) with a climber on Chalk Up A...

Description 

The rightmost portion of The Wall (where Chalk Up Another One is located) is split into two by a steep chimney system.

Tackle the obvious chimney, which is wide enough to allow upward progress but not so narrow as to make it overly difficult. Protection is found near the back of the crack, so if placing gear take some runners to keep the rope drag in check.

This is a good introductory style chimney to get comfortable on wider cracks as it affords good protection and elementary wide crack skills. The descent is found about 100' to the right of this climb and involves downclimbing and tunneling under some blocks.


Protection 

Gear to 4"



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By Woody Stark
Jun 8, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We should have rated this 5.7. This route could be used as a novice leader's "starter" jam/chimney. Awkward here and there, a little thought needs to be applied for pro placement, and a bit thin at the top.

By Woody Stark
Feb 5, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I climbed this again today after many years; I followed using it for leading experience for a moderately easy jam crack route. It's great for a novice leader.

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Mar 15, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Soloed this back in January. This is an old school 5.6 and is a real eye opener! Good route for developing chimney technique. Don

By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Feb 10, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I love the Damn Jam! Make your friends climb it.

You can climb it safely with gear to BD#3. The anchor requires a 2 and a 3 (or a couple 3's). A BD#1 fits perfectly in a slot right before the top "runout." It's not really runout, but without something in that slot it would be more exciting.