|The Tan Buttresses
Not that I'd know how it feels. This is the first route to the top of the tallest tower on the Tan Buttresses. It has some choss, but the crux pitch is great steep crack climbing on mostly excellent rock.
1) Climb into the corner system and follow it to a grassy ledge shared with the first pitch of Dog Fight. Follow a ramp up and left until your rope or rope drag requires you stop. 5.9.
2) Continue up and left along the ramp until a pleasant dihedral is reached. Belay at the top of the dihedral below some steep roofs on a nice ledge. 5.7. Pitches 1 and 2 are a combined 320 ft.
3) Traverse right under the roof directly above the belay and climb up an overhanging corner system to get established on the slightly less than vertical wall above. Head right into the prominant chimney system and follow that until you are below a fantastic looking finger and hand crack that breaks off to the left of the chimney system. 5.10 130ft.
4) Follow the finger and hand crack for 80ft or so, traversing right at the top of a pegmatite band into a steep chimney system. Follow this over an overhang and belay. 5.11+/12- 100ft.
5) Continue up the chimney system to the top of the wall. 5.8 50ft.
It starts 40 or so feet left of the start of Dog Fight, below a fairly prominant right facing corner system.
We took nuts, a double set of cams to #3 camalot and singles of #4 and #5. That worked well.
Taylor Roy on P4. You can see the splitter cracks...
Ben Collett on P1.
Ben Collett stemming on P3. Cool, blocky, and exp...
Ben Collett about to enter the steep corner on P3.
Taylor Roy high on P4. Just past the pegmatite ba...
|Comments on Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta
|By Taylor Roy|
From: Boulder, Co
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Here is my take on the route. This route is all about the crux fourth pitch. All the mediocre climbing up to there is worth the last 100 feet of climbing.
Also, beware of a very large, loose block about 80 feet up the third pitch. It is sitting on the right side of the large corner. We forgot to trundle it. Sorry.
A bit about the crux pitch. The rock changes from the pink granite to a pretty gray. The pitch follows a series of discontinuous, splitter cracks that undulates between fingers and hands up a steep head wall until you reach a pegmatite band. The crack pinches off and you are forced to lie back off a slopey offset feature and make a few face moves to reach more cracks. The wall kicks back even more but luckily some huge feet appear. Move right and makes a few balancy arete moves until you can escape into the large chimney. Juggy moves and a steep hand crack lead over a roof to an easy and well protected chimney.
This is a 3 star pitch and will only get better as it cleans up. Airy and adventurous climbing with great gear.
A harder variation may be possible. Instead of escaping into the chimney, keep going up the steep crack. This may require a few bolts to make it safe. Looks steep and wild!