The Galenstock in August, as seen from the top of ...
The southwest facing wall of the Dammazwillinge towers above the Tiefengletscher from which it is accessed. It is the most secluded of all climbing areas in the Furka region, and the high alpine setting is commensurate reward for the long approach.
The wall get sunlight from midmorning until fairly late in the day.
Check out the plaisir ost guidebook for topos.
Getting to the Dammazwillinge is a long haul - the guidebook gives it 160 minutes from Tiefenbach. It could be an interesting destination for a day trip with AT skis in the spring. Otherwise, one is well served to bivy somewhere along the way (there are fantastic, sandy spots along the way), or at least stay at the Albert-Heim hut to shave 45 minutes off the approach.
The approach follows that of the Graue Wand.
Begin from Tiefenbach, on the east side of the the Furka pass. Park there or pay a nominal fee for use of a former military road that will gain you some elevation and cut your approach time by 15-20 minutes. There is a clear trailhead for the approach to the hut.
To reach the Dammazwillinge, follow the approach to the hut. Just before the final slope leading to the hut, follow a red/white marked trail that breaks to the left. Follow this trail leading east/northeast. The Graue Wand is in clear view from here. Take a more or less direct line towards the area (there are trails and cairns everywhere, don't feel obliged to follow any particular one).
When you reach the final, flat plateau underneath the Graue Wand (with glacially fed streams and a small, shallow lake) head west up a moderately steep, bouldery slope, following cairns and a faint trail. At the top of the slope, continue west along the trail, which has some mild elevation gains and losses, as the more and more of the Tiefengletscher becomes visible in front of and below you. There is a giant, 2 meter cairn shortly before the path drops down to the level of the glacier. Get on the glacier (which is fairly compact, with few and relatively small crevasses). Head north, passing the the Gletschhorn and sporn on your right, until you arrive underneath the Dammazwillinge. Aim for a prominent pillar and ascend the slope to the base (not very steep, but crampons and an axe may be helpful depending on the conditions).
A very interesting, homogeous climb on very solid, steep red alpine granite. Interesting and engaging throughout, despite the very moderate grade. The line elegently weaves its way up the face, connecting various cracks and corners with relatively little traversing (except at the beginning of pitch two, for which there is also a direct variation - difficulty unknown, it looked good but a fair bit more challenging). Pitches go at 5a, 5b, 5b, 5b, 5b, 5a+, 3b.We found the final sequence in the firs...[more]Browse More Classics in International