|183 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.12- [details]|
|FA: ||Mark Geikenjoyner, Jason Nelson|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||North facing|
|Submitted By: ||markguycan on Oct 13, 2012|
BETA PHOTO: Damfino tower on approach with afternoon light. Le...
P1:varied crack- initially fingers and hands, pass an awkward face move (5.9) to OW, clip a bolt to the left then hand traverse on jugs to corner system, above this clip rap anchor and continue up easier another 70ft to next anchor.PG13.
P2: move belay to the left 30ft. MONEY PITCH- this is what it's all about. Climb fingers in a steep right facing dihedral, pass a couple small roofs and a pod to anchors 110ft (12-)
P3: continue up dihedral on 5.8 hands (80ft)
P4:turn arete onto North face pass a couple of bolts and gear. The exposure is HUGE! We climbed this pitch as a mix of C1 and 5.11; it'll probably go at 5.12. Alternatively, continue up dihedral/ow/chimney 5.10ish "Damfido". Rap the route.
right of Damfino original route about 50ft.
dbl set #00-#2, one #3,#3.5,#4. take extra #0.3 and maybe five #0.4's
set of nuts. 70M rope.
Jason on the money pitch!