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Damfino Canyon
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Damfidont 
Damfino Spire 

Damfidont 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Jason Nelson
New Route: Yes
Season: North facing
Page Views: 236
Submitted By: markguycan on Oct 13, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Damfino tower on approach with afternoon light. Le...

Description 

P1:varied crack- initially fingers and hands, pass an awkward face move (5.9) to OW, clip a bolt to the left then hand traverse on jugs to corner system, above this clip rap anchor and continue up easier another 70ft to next anchor.PG13.
P2: move belay to the left 30ft. MONEY PITCH- this is what it's all about. Climb fingers in a steep right facing dihedral, pass a couple small roofs and a pod to anchors 110ft (12-)
P3: continue up dihedral on 5.8 hands (80ft)
P4:turn arete onto North face pass a couple of bolts and gear. The exposure is HUGE! We climbed this pitch as a mix of C1 and 5.11; it'll probably go at 5.12. Alternatively, continue up dihedral/ow/chimney 5.10ish "Damfido". Rap the route.


Location 

right of Damfino original route about 50ft.


Protection 

dbl set #00-#2, one #3,#3.5,#4. take extra #0.3 and maybe five #0.4's
set of nuts. 70M rope.



Photos of Damfidont Slideshow Add Photo
Jason on the money pitch!
Jason on the money pitch!
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