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Simply stunning. Clip the Gold Rush chains, (or, if you're a purist, don't and place gear next to them) shake out, and commit to the gently overhanging, pocketed headwall above. Big, technical moves on mostly big holds will see you to the chains above.
Directly above Gold Rush.
Small stoppers and opt. small cams.
Mike Holmes opts for the dynamic option.
Another perspective on Dame el Oro.
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 2, 2013
I agree that the best possible pro after the move past the anchor is nuts - 2 stacked in the vertical seam to be precise. Bring #4-7 Stoppers and/or offset brass nuts, etc. No cam placement will be as bomber there! After that, #0-#2 BD C3's (or equivalent) can be placed just before the chains...Cool extension!
Oct 14, 2014
Takes a bomber Green C3 in the vertical seam right before the final big move. I back it up with a blue Metolius in the horizontal a foot below the vertical seam.