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Dam Bureaucrats
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Golder Dome
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Buzzworm's Backyard T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dam Bureaucrats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Klingons in the Neutral Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Ten Years After T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Kerry, BS, JT, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,466 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | JimmyK on Nov 27, 2012 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
See Bob Kerry's Southern AZ Backcountry Climbing Guide.( climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…)
P1: 5.7, 120 ft. Low angle crack to ledge with large oak trees. Belay at tree.
P2: 5.8+, 110 ft?. Start 10 feet left of belay for P1. Slab climb to a bolt appx 20 feet up, then another 40 feet above the first. Runout. Continue up over a bulge to one more bolt, then two bolt anchor.
P3: 5.8, 110 ft.?. Slab climb up and right to a bolt, then horn, up and over a bulge to gully. Belay at flat opening in gully. Best pitch of the route.
P4: 5.8-, 70 ft?: Slab climb up and to the right to one bolt. Continue up and right to 2 bolt anchor.
The route ends at the top of Jungle Cruiser. Rap down Jungle Cruiser. From what I recall, a 60 meter rope would get down the first rap and maybe the 2nd rap. Double ropes required on the last two raps (Rap 3 and 4).
Enjoyable route that is in the shade all day.
P1: 5.7, 120 ft. Low angle crack to ledge with large oak trees. Belay at tree.
P2: 5.8+, 110 ft?. Start 10 feet left of belay for P1. Slab climb to a bolt appx 20 feet up, then another 40 feet above the first. Runout. Continue up over a bulge to one more bolt, then two bolt anchor.
P3: 5.8, 110 ft.?. Slab climb up and right to a bolt, then horn, up and over a bulge to gully. Belay at flat opening in gully. Best pitch of the route.
P4: 5.8-, 70 ft?: Slab climb up and to the right to one bolt. Continue up and right to 2 bolt anchor.
The route ends at the top of Jungle Cruiser. Rap down Jungle Cruiser. From what I recall, a 60 meter rope would get down the first rap and maybe the 2nd rap. Double ropes required on the last two raps (Rap 3 and 4).
Enjoyable route that is in the shade all day.
Protection
Single Rack, Nuts to #3 Camalot. A few bolts on Pitches 2, 3, and 4. Fixed Anchors on top of Pitch 2 and Pitch 4.
PG-13 rating because, typical of the area, the bolts on the slab/face are few and far between but the slab/face is manageable if you are comfortable with some run-out sections.
PG-13 rating because, typical of the area, the bolts on the slab/face are few and far between but the slab/face is manageable if you are comfortable with some run-out sections.
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