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Frog Prince
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Man's Bluff S 
Children of the Mojave S 
Dairy Queen S 
Dark Passage S 
Freddie Prince Jr S 
Frog Prince (AKA Babies) S 
Gollum S 
Raven, The S 
Red Queen S 
Through the Looking Glass S 
Unknown FP 1 S 
Unknown FP 2 S 
White Knight S 
White Queen S 
You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs S 

Dairy Queen 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Matt Samet
Page Views: 375
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jun 29, 2010

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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

While this route is basically a silly linkup, it does add a few extra feet of climbing and a tricky sequence to Red Queen. So I found it worth doing if you're looking for a new challenge at the Tower.

Start up on Frog Prince (aka Babies) to just above the second bolt. From here a few obvious holds start the traverse right leading to a tricky move on poor pockets to gain Red Queen at it's third bolt (not including the belay bolt). From here rest if you can before pulling the powerful or dynamic crux of Red and White Queen.

Not sure why the guide considers this route as slightly easier than the standard Queen lines. I found it slightly harder than Red Queen and quite a bit harder than White Queen, because of the extra time and distance on the overhanging wall.


Location 

Start up the first two bolts of Frog Prince, then traverse right until you join up with Red Queen.


Protection 

8 Bolts. In addition to the standard bolts I clipped the 3rd bolt on Frog Prince with a long sling and the linkup bolt on Drag Queen.



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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 10, 2012

I had always heard this referred to as 5.13+, and now that you, DTP, are on the mend, don't you think you really should start with the sit start boulder problem to Gollum?

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 10, 2012

I've actually put significant effort into that line, calling it Drag Queen Sit Start. After the opening V7? boulder problem then the traverse I could never pull the crux of White Queen. It is actually kind of fun for a new challenge, but unfortunatly the difficulty is dependent on where you traverse across the wall. I traversed across where it was the easiest and I could still clip the 1/2" bolts from below, this way I thought it was 13c. If you traversed slightly higher with the linkup bolts at your waist, it just might make the original 14a/13d grade.

Dairy Queen I think is only slightly harder than Red Queen. Starting on Frog Prince is easier than the start to Thru the Looking Glass, then there are some hard moves on the traverse. So ~12c/d to get into the boulder problem.