||Mixed, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'
|Consensus: ||M4 [details]|
|FA: ||B. Collett, D. Haller, March 2011|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||530|
|Submitted By: ||Ben Collett on Mar 12, 2011|
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The Red line is Tastee Freeze. The Blue one is Dai...
This climb is well-protected from the wind and makes for a nice, quick outing.
1) Climb up to the dihedral, then up the dihedral, belaying on the left just after it ends at a well-protected stance with good gear.
2) Step right and climb up the depression until it steepens up a bit after 130 feet or so. A belay can be arranged here.
3) Climb over the steep bit, head right a little bit, then head up towards a chimney below a large dead tree. Follow this chimney to the dead tree and the top of the buttress.
A nice descent is to head down the ridge towards the Dream Lake Chutes and then follow them down to Dream Lake.
Start about 150 feet right of Tastee Freeze
below an obvious, left-facing dihedral.
Standard rock rack.