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Dags in Beanland 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Craig Luebben, Lizz Grenard, and Matt Beanland
Page Views: 4,355
Submitted By: Tyler Jones on Jun 9, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Dags In Beanland and Whetstone.

Description 

This is on Seam Rock, a few miles up the dirt road from Combat Rock...follow Rossiter's approach info...just park on the left road at a small pullout and cruise north, up the mountainside and slabs...then drop down into draw and go up water streaked slabs to the base of the route at the low point of the rock.

P1 goes low-angle up and right to a blank section with a bolt and join a large quartz streak that goes up and left (runout but easy) to a good ledge.

P2 goes up short crack onto steep slab and heads right to bolt and up steep and balancy past some bolts and up to the way left side of the roof...turn the roof up unto steep dike and up to bolt and continue up fun rock to a 2 bolt anchor.

P3 angles up and left on fun rock with spaced pro and fun moves on bumpy rock to a large ledge with trees.

P4 goes up small roof and up to twisted juniper and go up fun crack onto beautiful face steep up past 2 bolts with perfect holds and up to a ledge (optional belay), and go up bulges with good pro and the angle eases for the last 40 feet to summit (long, 200 foot stretcher). Easy for 5.8, well protected cruxes...VERY fun on quality rock!!!

Dag is an Australian term for "dingleberry". Beanland was visiting from Australia.

Protection 

Small rack with quickdraws for the bolts.... A few 2 bolt anchors, a few gear anchors.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: there is one bolt on pitch 1, five bolts on pitch 2 plus two bolts for the anchor, one bolt on pitch 3, and two bolts on pitch 4.

Some info on the new anchors which appeared on this route, along with the added protection bolts, in 2013:

These bolts and quicklinks with smash links were designed to create a fixed rappel route down from the top of the climb. They are painted a camo green color.

There is an anchor at the very top of the climb. The next anchor can be found about 50' down the slab at a ledge on the right. The next anchor is about 100-120' down and right. They are next to an old twisted juniper tree.

The next anchor is about 100-120' down and right in a big scoop. The next anchor is about 100' directly below that at the top of pitch 2 (this anchor was placed by Craig Luebben on the FA). The last anchor is about 180' down and slightly left which is the top of pitch 1.

I must stress that I am only making vague estimates of the actual distances between anchors. I would strongly recommend using two 60m ropes for the rappels.


Photos of Dags in Beanland Slideshow Add Photo
14 protection bolts added to this route in 2013 which were removed.
14 protection bolts added to this route in 2013 wh...
View from the base of the route, first bolt visible 20' up.
View from the base of the route, first bolt visibl...
kelley on the second pitch
kelley on the second pitch
Closeup of homemade hanger with bogus 3/8" carabiner hole.
Closeup of homemade hanger with bogus 3/8" ca...

Comments on Dags in Beanland Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 12, 2014
By Matt Bauman
Jun 10, 2001

I added this one....climbed it yesterday. Musta forgot to add my name..... Good fun but the descent makes it kinda pain in the ass but GREAT climbing.
By Mike Sofranko
Jun 15, 2001

A 60m rope allows this route to easily go in 4 pitches, otherwise, you'll probably do 5 pitches plus a bit of scrambling at the top. With a 60m rope: Instead of belaying below the tree as Matt described, stretch P3 all the way to the tree. Run P4 to the summit.
By Brice W
Jun 17, 2002

This is a fun route. The granite is smoother than at Lumpy. The angle of the slab and occasional runouts reminded me of the Flatirons, though the crux is well protected. You can leave any cams bigger than a #1 Camalot at home. Small Aliens were nice to have (blue, green yellow).

We belayed at a large juniper tree on the huge ledge at the end of the first pitch. I climbed straight up from the tree, but then I had to traverse over about 50 feet to reach the 2nd bolt on the 2nd pitch. You may want to move the belay after the 1st pitch or set the anchor more to climber's right. The rest of the routefinding is straightforward.

On the descent, don't do what we did and cruise down the hillside without cutting back towards the base of the climb enough. We thought we were staying fairly close to the edge of the face, but we realized (too late) that we'd descended way too low and too far to the East. I got to redo the approach to the base of the climb to retrive my pack. From the base of the climb, the descent goes straight down for maybe 100-150 yards, then heads SE (left, as you are hiking down) across the slabs. There are some cairns on the slabs.
By allen simons
Jun 21, 2003

Dags is actually on Cedar Park slab, not Combat. It's a fun 5 pitch slab route with good protection at the crux.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 5, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We got a bit lost near the top of the third pitch - I went way out left and never found the classic bolted 5.6 slab Rossiter describes. We did find an easy 5.2 slab past a bolted anchor to a 15' steep headwall that was maybe 5.8 and a lot of fun. It gets vague up there for sure.

I was initially reluctant to do this climb because of the private property concerns. We just parked at the T junction, and a few locals drove by and waved. The unabomber shack straight uphill is best avoided by walking west along the road at the T junction before bushwhacking straight up.

Has anyone done the rappels just right of the route? Looks like two ropes are needed, is this the case?

Very good, but not as classic as 3 star climbs in the same range like Kor's Flake.

The bolted part is tricky for 5.8
By shad O'Neel
Aug 30, 2004

Bring tri-cams and expect to run it out over ground/ledge fall terrain. Great route, in my opinion not the 'easy 5.8' as described above.
By russj
May 8, 2005

8 May 2005--Our family owns the private lot just West of Seam Rock but must sell it to pay college tuition. Great access to the rock at the end of a cul-de-sac. I'd love to sell it to a climber! Contact me for information.
By joell
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 20, 2005
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Fun route but be prepared for some runout. Mike's suggestion to make it go in 4 pitches with a 60m works great.

A nut is loose on the left hanger of the double-bolt anchor. We spun it back on by hand but did not have tools to tighten. Beware of it. Hopefully the next person up can tighten this nut before it falls off.

Pretty easy for the 5.8 rating. Trust your feet, and it climbs well.
By Keith Reis
Jul 10, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very good route. It looked like we were the first ones to climb it in a while?? No, path for the approach or along the base.

Approach time- Give 1 hr. We looked for a "public access" point to the formation which is on National Forest and I think that is what we used. At least there was nothing there, but we did wander a bit to avoid homes.

Route-P1- High quality 5.7 slab, small edges and runout 30-40ft in places.P2- Starts in short crack to slab with 3 bolts and pulls through roof to a bolt 5ft up then 30 feet to a 2 bolt anchor- bring a wrench to tighten the left hanger. 5.8 slab, at a well protected crux. Use an "orange" Metolius under the roof.P3- We were "sucked" into a great looking 5.6 crack 15ft [right] of anchors. Took discontinous cracks for another 140ft or so to great ledge.P3.5-[Traverse] left 40ft and up 20 to a stance next to a short tree. The 3 bolt 5.6 is just up and left of here. The bolts are there but hard to see because the way the hangers are positioned. We did not climb this but opted instead to do a variation to the left. The second, [Mike], traversed to under me and then another 30ft climbers left of me to a broken ledge/shoulder area directly below the orange water streaks. I down climbed and then joined him here.P4- (could be new, Mike Scherer lead- called it "Uppity Ant" b/c of all the ants at the belay,, but the climbing is so good we doubt it has been over looked) From belay leader goes 10ft right then up steep 5.6 slab. Run it out 30ft or so and cut left into a crack for pro. Use a long sling and go back to the slab for another 80-100 ft to a horizontal crack, belay here- we don't know if a 60m reaches the top but it would be very close with no opportunity for another anchor.P5- run it out 60ft to the top on 5.2-4 slab.

Great piece of rock!! Solid Granite, great views, eye contact with you partner the whole way, very enjoyable.

Descent: I will never hike off this route again!! Horrible! Take 2 60m ropes and find the rappels, they are there and you see them to your right as you ascend pitches 1-3.

Hike out is also an hour. Down, then back up, and repeat to the car.

Have fun and be polite as there are lots of homes around.
By chris buckley
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 3, 2006

Climbed this enjoyable route last weekend. Very nice adventure on a slabby rock. I tightened the first belay station loose bolt with a standard wrench but recommend that someone bring a socket wrench to drive that bolt home.

We climbed it with double 60m ropes and brought long slings that helped with the rope drag (we took variations on whatever looked fun). Because of our meandering, I wasn't able to link the last two pitches however and opted for a belay to the right under the big roof. Top of P.3 make sure you climb straight up to the upper tree above the block on the big ledge (head farther right than you think) if you want to push the last two pitches together (from there, head straight up through the bolts for p.4 and 5).

Beware of the rappels. Even with our setup, we had some tricky negotiating between the first rap (look for old slings around a pine tree on top) and the the next ledge (another tree) even with the rope stretch we barely made it. I was very disappointed that from there to the apparent final rap anchors our 60mm ropes were over ten feet short. We were able to swing climber's right to a small stance then downclimb 25ft off to the talus. I wouldn't recommend it. We must have missed an intermediate rap station but it was quicker than the described hike down. Good adventure if you aren't expecting steep rock. Mostly easier friction with lots of knobs on the dikes with a couple of 5.8+ moves with okay pro. The friction slabs on this route were more fun than my experiences in the Flatirons.

Have fun up there!!
By kyle kingrey
From: Loveland
Apr 30, 2007

Climbed Dags on 4-29-07
Although I have climbed this route numerous times over the years, I still find this climb as an excellent outing.
We rappelled the route (starting the rap to climbers left) this time making for a much quicker descent.
There many variations to the noted routes as well as tons of potential for other, harder routes. An area that comes to mind that would rate 5.10 to 5.11 is the perfect slab 50' or so to the left of the 3rd belay. As of now there is no pro but a few bolts would make this route a classic on Seam Rock.
By Joshua Balke
From: Colorado Springs
May 15, 2007

"The unabomber shack straight uphill is best avoided by walking west along the road at the T junction before bushwhacking straight up." That's great. Your probably talking about Tom's Place. My friend owns the place and rents it to the old vet that built it close to 30 years ago. He's a nice guy, but don't be suprised if he talks you into some strange conversation.
By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 3, 2008

Climbed 9.27.08 with A. Wiedmann...approach is a bit scratchy but not too bad. Couldn't find any 5.7 on P1. It's mostly 5.easy, could be 4th-classed without much trouble. P2 is definitely the best one, plenty of friction and slightly-delicate face moves. There might be a 5.8 move on this pitch somewhere. The rest is much like the Flatirons, not too much pro but mostly easy climbing on nice rock.

Worth a trip, though definitely not in the same league as other area moderate classics like Pear Buttress or Kor's Flake.
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 29, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We did this today and hearing about the bad descent, we took two ropes and enough webbing to reinforce the rap anchors. We went by several of the rap anchors and they are in bad shape (very UV worn webbing). In the end we decided to walk off, so whoever raps the wall next might want to consider bringing plenty of extra webbing along.

As for the walk off, it isn't quite as bad as people make out out to be provided you do not leave anything at the base! We climbed with our packs and then walked a considerable distance to climbers' right before heading down, and it wasn't bad. We ended up a little further up the road from where we parked, but the 1/4 mile of walking along the road was worth it to avoid the nasty descent along the cliff.

As for the route. Yes, it is run out, but on very easy terrain. Getting to the first bolt is similar to getting to the first bolt on the east face of the first flatiron, but perhaps easier (especially if you wander a bit right).

The second pitch definitely had some delicate 5.8 slab moves, but they were all well protected by bolts. The third pitch has some run outs but on <5.6 climbing. The final pitch did have ledge fall potential until you clipped the bolt above the ledge with the juniper. (You could get a nut in lower down but if you blow it right before the bolt, you would hit the ledge). I would say the climbing there was 5.3-5.4 in difficulty.

Overall, a very nice route. I would say this rock is significantly nicer than MacGregor Slab. The rock is far more stable and the route is more fun. It may not be as classic as some of the routes at Lumpy, but I would recommend this over MacGregor any day. With the lack of traffic McGregor is seeing these days, I would say the lack of trail here doesn't really make the approach/descent significantly worse.
By Dave Miller
From: Boulder
Jun 12, 2012

Climbed this for a second time this past Sunday (6-10-12).
My two cents...
Approach: At the 'T" intersection turn East, park at end of drive, circle with pullouts.
Formation is viewed to the North, cabin downhill 200 feet East. Bushwhack to rock keep as East as possible to avoid gulch/cliff difficult sections.
P1: Climb in from the right, direct start overgrown with fern, towards bolt on clean slab.
Number 2 Camalot will protect move over small roof. Belay at ledge.
P2: Move right to short crack, ascend crack, move right, ascend slab to the second bolt in a line of three bolts (rope drag and more of a natural line). Move over small roof, clip bolt 5 feet beyond roof. Belay at two bolt anchor.
P3: Move up a thin seam to a bumpy fun face, clip one bolt on face. Belay at ledge towards left most tree.
P4: Big easy face, similar in nature to the First Flatiron,
Descent: Bushwhack East, then down rotten gully. Do not move too far East, if you pass over too many gullies you will be f@#ked! You will see the cabin and your car, wear socks for the hiking.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 18, 2012

As for protection on the route, I had a set of Aliens and Camalots up to a #2 (gold). There looks to be a newer bolt added to the top of the second pitch which now has six and not five bolts. The trick for finding the correct water streak for pitch #4 is to look for the black water streak just to the right of the twisted juniper. Don't take the white, light-colored, streak on the left.

The key to nailing the descent is to avoid the temptation to follow the easy slopes down and east from the top. Head more southeast which keeps you right on the edge of the face of the slab. Cut down and right at the first major break and stay high as you traverse back to the base. Taking your approach shoes up the climb really helps make the descent more comfortable.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Aug 2, 2013

It appears that a number of bolts have been added to this climb. This has been discussed in the following thread:

mountainproject.com/v/new-bolt...
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Oct 9, 2014

Dale Haas and I replaced 9 of Craig Leubben's original 11 bolts on this route with 3/8" SS Powers five piece bolts and ASCA-stamped Fixe hangers. For those keeping count: there is one bolt on pitch 1, five bolts on pitch 2 plus two bolts for the anchor, one bolt on pitch 3, and two bolts on pitch 4.

The only bolts we didn't replace were one belay bolt at the top of pitch 2 and the second protection bolt on pitch 4. Both these bolts were already SS Powers 5-piece. BTW, the final bolt on pitch 4 has a '90s-style Metolius SS hanger.

We also added Fixe Double ring hangers to the two-bolt anchor on top of pitch 2.

The American Safe Climbing Association - ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware for this project. They appreciate your support.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Oct 9, 2014

Here is some info on the new anchors which appeared on this route, along with the added protection bolts, in 2013. These bolts and quicklinks with smash links were designed to create a fixed rappel route down from the top of the climb. They are painted a camo green color.

There is an anchor at the very top of the climb. The next anchor can be found about 50' down the slab at a ledge on the right. The next anchor is about 100-120' down and right. They are next to an old twisted juniper tree.

The next anchor is about 100-120' down and right in a big scoop. The next anchor is about 100' directly below that at the top of pitch 2 (this anchor was placed by Craig Luebben on the FA). The last anchor is about 180' down and slightly left which is the top of pitch 1.

I must stress that I am only making vague estimates of the actual distances between anchors. I would strongly recommend using two 60m ropes for the rappels. It is not clear to me why the upper anchors are so close together.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Oct 12, 2014

The 14 protection bolts which were added to this route in spring/summer 2013 have been removed. You can read about it here: mountainproject.com/v/new-bolt...