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Dag Nasty Part Deux 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 607
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 


    70m rope required



    Start up the left of the two bolt lines and head up blocky, lower-angle terrain past an initial bulge and then into a steeper-than-it-appears headwall above. Clear the headwall and head up some slabby limestone with cool chert dikes, interesting pockets and edges, and then up over a roof in ligher-colored rock just before the anchors. Note that the bolt just over the last roof is difficult to see from below.

    Rappelling (there are some rough edges) with a 70m rope will just make it to safe ground with rope stretch. Knot the rope ends.

    70m rope required



    Location 

    Located at the east (downhill) side of the buttress that forms the right side of the upper part of the gully containing Visionary Wall. Approach by either walking up the left side of the Visionary Wall gully near the left wall and then cutting across the gully, or continue along the stream bed and scramble up the next gully to the north.

    This is the left of the two bolt lines.

    Protection 

    16 bolts, single-ring anchors.


    Comments on Dag Nasty Part Deux Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By ddriver
    From: SLC
    Jul 18, 2011

    I would not recommend this route mostly due to rock quality on the headwall. Its also disconcerting to stand on suspect pillars with the bolt below your feet in said pillar. Last complaint is placement of a hanging belay in relatively suspect rock when a good stance with good rock is 3 feet lower.
    By Perin Blanchard
    Administrator
    From: Orem, UT
    Jul 18, 2011

    If you were at a hanging belay you weren't on Dag Nasty Part Deux.

    Likely you were on Old School, although I don't remember the rock being particularly bad on that one.
    By greg austin
    From: Lehi, Utah
    Sep 18, 2013

    I would recommend this route. Some of the loose rock has been cleaned up, although I pulled a handhold off and took a short fall. Bring a long runner to attach to the rings at the top and you can stand on the ledge. The view of Tank canyon from the top is awesome. A long route that has an adventurous feel.