This route was really cool. On the left end of the slabs is this bolted line. The first bolt is low and easy to get to. The second bolt has a thin slabby area to work with. The pin between the two is missing. Climb to the roof, protect it, and surmount it. It is easier than it looks. Place a piece in the crack to your right, and run it out to the next mini-roof. pop this and head to your last bolt. The crux is protected by an old angle piton. I was able to slot 1 brass and 1 BD micro to help with the load. I am not sure which was the worst piece. The crux is reach and it is also very flaky again. What makes this rooute so good IMHO, is that it has 3 distinct and different areas of 10'ish climbing. The 2nd bolt slab-work, the roof after bolt 2, and the moves around the pin. Enjoy.
3 bolts + 1 pin and a 2 bolt anchor, now with chains. The other pin seems to be missing. Standard rack, heavy on the cams, as the cracks seem to flare a lot.
|By Lee Gitlin|
Sep 19, 2005
Placing pro on this route can lead to a drag-inducing zig-zag, so be sure to have runners at the ready. The first bolt was a considerate placement, not too high and protecting some cruxy slab work. A chickenhead unlocks the roof sequence, which protects well. The route is runout if you go direct from the crack at right to the pin. (you can elect to go left from the crack and get some more pro below the crux). Maybe it was just poor technique, but I'm 6' and had to slap at the ledge above the final crux.
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard for 10a. The bottom slab moves are about Fin Arete-hard. Dig out those placements in the dirty crack on your way to the 2nd bolt, they're under there. Sling the mahogany above the roof super long and run it out on the easy slab.
The upper section is really good, steep and insecure but protects well with bomber small nuts. The very last move is the cherry.
Gear: small nuts, small cams (down to purple C3) to .4 and a #2 and a #3. Assloads of long runners.