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Chicken Wall
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Daddy Blocker 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Alber, July 1999
Page Views: 956
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 21, 2001
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Description 

Located on 'The Chicken Wall' of the 'Clock Tower', this is just right of "Chicken Hawk". This is the longest route on the wall and gives a couple cruxes. Watch out for the bat shit/piss before pulling the roof at the top. A key hold can be found for reaching the anchors by reaching around the right arete to a large jug. It is a decent route (a little dirty) with many different types of moves. 2 stars.


Protection 

7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.



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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 7, 2002
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I'm no Sharma, but 5.9 is closer to reality.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 8, 2002

A decent route -- be careful clipping the second bolt! I "barn-doored" off the wall while trying to get in a better position to the right of this bolt to clip it --- I was flipped over head-first because of the rope running under my leg and came within 1 foot of hitting my head on the ground...close call!!

The next day I went and bought a helmet!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 29, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

5.9??? Oh my god, Leo???


This is the one route at the cliff that I thought was hard at its grade and my partner agreed. I thought 11a.

Would be a decent route if it were not for the guano up high- a nasty lot of it when wet too- where are my arm-condums (TM)???

By Benten
From: Denver
Aug 15, 2011

Contrived and not easy.

By Chris Archer
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R

Climbing on first half is OK, but bolts are placed to the right which makes route finding less obvious. The second half is contrived and poorly bolted. An attentive belayer is necessary to avoid a ledge fall on the upper half; 2 ways to pull the roof - I thought the right option better.