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Cactus Cliff
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Da Fly 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, 1995. FFA: Dan Durland or Kurt Smith
Page Views: 1,262
Submitted By: Adam Holmes on Feb 3, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (1)

Man-tasia is now named Pi...

Description 

Climbs through the nice looking, steep, black streak right of the Working Man/Pick Pocket area (see photo). Solo up to a ledge to the first bolt or use your 25 foot long stick clip. Seriously, the climbing to the first bolt is not too hard, but something could easily break. A bolt or two should definitely be added to the start. The crux is moving through the first bulge and up the white headwall. Pulling the bulge is a little beta intensive and many, many chalked holds exist here to confuse the situation. Pretty nice power endurance section. Arrive at a very good jug to rest below the black streak. I may have cheated through this black bulge by moving 4 feet left of the bolt line, but I can't see a way to get through otherwise. The black bulge looks awesome but has pretty worthless holds and is the steepest part of the route. For this route to be 13a I think the climber must move left at this point. Please let me know if there is some great beta to stay within the bolt-line. Despite the traversing, the climbing stays fun with a little endurance pump all the way to the chains.


Protection 

8 bolts + anchors.



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By Dan Durland
Mar 19, 2002

Originally bolted by Kevin McLaughlin is my guess and I have heard that Kurt Smith supposedly did the FA, but I have also heard that I did the FA - who knows. There used to be 2 or 3 bolts in the lower section but these were stripped along time ago and need to be replaced for a safer start. The upper crux can be climbed by moving slightly right of the bolt line but not all the way over to Glue Slippage; this is more in line with the route then going way to the left. As a side note, the upper crux goes straight up on the crappy hold if you throw a big dyno or are very short but the grade goes up a letter or two.

By Dave Snyder
Feb 21, 2009

Just did this thing today. Pretty fun. I felt it was probably a pretty solid 13b def not an A. For the upper crux, I did an all points off dyno from one horizontal to the next. No climbing around the bolts.

By abc
Jun 10, 2009

I pulled off the big clipping hold over the bulge. Now you have to clip off of the sloper undercling or the sideways dyno hold, and then go from there all the way up to the two finger pockets. It feels quite a bit harder to me.

By urs
Sep 25, 2011

I got on this route yesterday and felt the bottom bulge is about V8 to a clip off the horrible pinches and crimps over the bulge. If you blow the clip, there is potential to easily deck on the ledge.... The second bulge I messed around with until finally I gave up and headed right and found a sequence a little close to the route to the right. Using that sequence I could easily seeing as 13b with a really scary clip at the crux.