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Twin Gate
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Blood S 
Climbing School S 
Da Fei Ji (Big Airplane) S 
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Da Fei Ji (Big Airplane) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: P1: Ken & Karen McMahon, 1998, P2,3: Paul Collis, Alex Xi Tang, 2003
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 9, 2010

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Description 

The first pitch is clearly the signature route of Twin Gates, and alot of fun. The upper pitches are also good, but need more cleaning of the loose rock. Also, the beginning of the 2nd pitch seems to stay wet longer after rain, even when other routes are completely dry.

P1: Climb the right side of the right 'gate' up to the obvious cave-lip traverse left. Big holds the whole way take you to a the crux: a strenuous step up to gain the face. Continue up, lie-backing and/or stemming up to the last few easier moves to the anchor. Easy to top rope P1 from here.

P2 & 3: Continue straight up from the P1 belay.


Location 

This route is hard to miss: its the obvious, overhanging route that climbs the right side of the bigger cave mouth.


Protection 

Bolts to 2 bolt chain anchors.



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