Da Butts Rock Climbing
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GPS: |
39.33131, -105.26801 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 14,458 total · 56/month |
Shared By: | richard berk on Feb 21, 2003 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Da Butts is a nice quite (if you ignore the sound of semi-automatic gunfire) place to climb. Big Butt has several quality 2 pitch crack routes from 5.7+ to 5.10b. The main routes are south facing and very climbable on a warm winter day. Little Butt contains a great one pitch 5.11a dihedral. This is a traditional area with almost no bolts.
Getting There
To reach Da Butts drive 4.3 miles south from Buffalo Creek on Hwy 126 to FR 550. This is the turn off for Wellington Lake and the Castle. Turn right on 550 and drive 0.3 miles - park on the left at the intersection of an old blocked road.
Hike up the blocked road - this can be a little tricky. The road splits near the beginning but rejoins further up. A little less than ten minutes up the road there will be a fork where you bear left. The right fork is the approach for Asshole rocks. Another 5 minutes or so up the road you will reach a large flat area - the old parking area when the road was open. From here leave the road (to the right) and head uphill and angling right to reach the top of the ridge. If all goes well you will top out near the north face of Big Butt. I then go around the right side of the rock (you can go left as well). Scramble down through a slot on the right (west). At this point Little Butt will be in front of you with the Showcase dihedral being very visible. Go down and left to reach the south face of Big Butt. Allow about 30 minutes for the approach or longer if you plan on getting lost. Just remember you want to be on top of the ridge.
Hike up the blocked road - this can be a little tricky. The road splits near the beginning but rejoins further up. A little less than ten minutes up the road there will be a fork where you bear left. The right fork is the approach for Asshole rocks. Another 5 minutes or so up the road you will reach a large flat area - the old parking area when the road was open. From here leave the road (to the right) and head uphill and angling right to reach the top of the ridge. If all goes well you will top out near the north face of Big Butt. I then go around the right side of the rock (you can go left as well). Scramble down through a slot on the right (west). At this point Little Butt will be in front of you with the Showcase dihedral being very visible. Go down and left to reach the south face of Big Butt. Allow about 30 minutes for the approach or longer if you plan on getting lost. Just remember you want to be on top of the ridge.
Classic Climbing Routes at Da Butts
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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