Da Black and Gold
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looking down at the twin seams from the belay
The route begins in a shallow, left-facing corner, midway up the ramp that leads to the base of the Gold Wall (L.Ellison, C.Noble, 1980). Climb the corner to a small ledge, step left into a finger crack to a small roof. The original line traversed right on small face holds--avoiding the layback--to gain a finger crack that leads to a ledge. The roof/right facing corner can also be dealt with directly; committing layaway moves gain a flaring crack that eventually leads to the same ledge and to an optional belay beneath a small roof, the belay takes 1" to 2.5".
From the stance beneath the small roof, trend leftward, climbing thin edges to an overlap. Undercling the overlap to gain a thin stem box below a large, rectangular keyed-in flake. After surmounting the flake, climb the clean face above; continue up the face along twin parallel seams to a thin gear crux just below a belay stance with a bolt. The bolt can be backed up using a small cam or wire. A short, leftward traverse (maybe 5.8) joins the Gold Wall just below the roof.
A standard rack: small wires--offsets useful--with doubles in tips to finger-sized cams. The single bolt at the belay can be backed up with a small wire or cam.
BETA PHOTO: the red line shows the approximate line of the fir...
Erik Kelly, visible near the bottom right, enters ...
|Comments on Da Black and Gold
Sep 16, 2008
rating: 5.11a PG13
Nice Find!! Qualityyy pitch
Climb the railroad track cracks from the ground to the single bolt belay for one long, involved pitch.
Bring along faith and extra small gear.
It's easy to traverse left form the belay(like 5.8)to climb Fool's Gold.
|By Rob Duncan|
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 15, 2011
this pitch is great! I liked it better than Shingo's other Gold Wall gem, the P-38.
we were a bit confused about how to join the Gold Wall and ended up bailing after the first pitch. To clear up subsequent misadventures:
at the bolt add a nut or small cam to make belay atop Da Black and Gold (P1). traverse far left to the far left side of the gold wall (P2). this will join with the top (or thereabouts) of the first pitch of the Gold Wall. from here, traverse way right under the roofs and climb the epic wandering money pitch of the gold wall (the gold wall's second true pitch).
The gold wall is pretty sweet. Golden bullet hard granite, no loose exfoliating rock to be seen!