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Climb the first 2 (or 3) pitches of D7 (5.9-5.10) and belay about 15 feet above the left side of Crossover Ledge at some fixed pins.
1) Climb a steep section that goes up and left via fingers and face, past a couple fixed pins and a few fixed wires. Gain the right-facing, left-leaning corner/ramp (easier climbing but a little awkward) and follow this to a 2-bolt anchor which is part of the rappel route (5.11a, 110 feet).
2) Climb the steep, right-facing corner above, which varies from hands to fingertips for about 90 feet, 5.11b. Traverse right on a sloping ledge to rejoin D7 above its crux headwall, and continue via the 5.11 crack above for another 50 feet or so to a sling belay at some fixed gear (5.11b, 140 feet).
Finish with the last pitch of D7 (5.11a).
Take a standard rack to 4" with some extra 1/2-3/4" pieces and lots of quickdraws for the lower pitches.
Monte Lunacek climbing.
Monte Lunacek gains "the ramp".
Looking up at the second pitch of the Variation.
|By Phil Lauffen|
Aug 5, 2013
Has anyone gone left at the top of the 11b pitch to the next bolted anchor and tried to climb straight up the dirty crack above the bolts? Is this Soma? We went that way yesterday, and I bailed after the crack ended about 50 ft off the belay. There is a crack to the right which looked climbable, but there was a hanging flake that looked recently detached and was poised to kill my belayer.