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D7 Variation 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 789
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Jul 31, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Monte Lunacek low on the first pitch of the D7 Var...

Description 

Climb the first 2 (or 3) pitches of D7 (5.9-5.10) and belay about 15 feet above the left side of Crossover Ledge at some fixed pins.

1) Climb a steep section that goes up and left via fingers and face, past a couple fixed pins and a few fixed wires. Gain the right-facing, left-leaning corner/ramp (easier climbing but a little awkward) and follow this to a 2-bolt anchor which is part of the rappel route (5.11a, 110 feet).

2) Climb the steep, right-facing corner above, which varies from hands to fingertips for about 90 feet, 5.11b. Traverse right on a sloping ledge to rejoin D7 above its crux headwall, and continue via the 5.11 crack above for another 50 feet or so to a sling belay at some fixed gear (5.11b, 140 feet).

Finish with the last pitch of D7 (5.11a).


Protection 

Take a standard rack to 4" with some extra 1/2-3/4" pieces and lots of quickdraws for the lower pitches.



Photos of D7 Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Matt Pierce following the beautiful crux pitch on the Variation, 7/19/14.
Matt Pierce following the beautiful crux pitch on ...
Monte Lunacek climbing.
Monte Lunacek climbing.
Looking up at the second pitch of the Variation.
Looking up at the second pitch of the Variation.
Monte Lunacek gains "the ramp".
Monte Lunacek gains "the ramp".
Matt Pierce just through the crux on the Variation, 7/19/14.
Matt Pierce just through the crux on the Variation...
Comments on D7 Variation Add Comment
Show which comments
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 5, 2013

Has anyone gone left at the top of the 11b pitch to the next bolted anchor and tried to climb straight up the dirty crack above the bolts? Is this Soma? We went that way yesterday, and I bailed after the crack ended about 50 ft off the belay. There is a crack to the right which looked climbable, but there was a hanging flake that looked recently detached and was poised to kill my belayer.

By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 29, 2014

Phil - Soma is further left. At the top of the first pitch to D7 Var, you traverse left to a hanging right facing corner and climb to a fixed anchor. This will set you up correctly for the final pitch to Table Ledge. Unless you're FA'ing, in which case, by all means!