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 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Glyptodon T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

d. Strictly - Shockley's  


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Location: 41.73895, -74.18478 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 93,713
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 15, 2011
Forecast:
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Derek underneath the first crux roof on Shockley's...

Along the Cliff 

last area: Frog's Head & The Arch | next area: The Mac Wall

Description 

Major Features: The major attractions for this area are the classic-moderate namesake routes: Strictly From Nowhere and Shockley's Ceiling. There are, however, several other truly worthwhile routes in the surrounding area.

The left boundary of this area is the sharp, hanging arete of Ribs, which is just downhill from the Arch. At the right end, the huge corner system of Three Pines marks the boundary for the next section, e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting).

Approach: The Shockley's Ceiling approach trail is easily identified at the carriage road by its intersection with the East Trapps Connector trail -- the Stairmaster, as it's lovingly called, that comes up to the carriage road from the Visitor Center parking lot. This trail brings you right to the base of Strictly From Nowhere, and Shockley's Ceiling is just around the arete to the right.

Descents: There are bolted rappel lines over Ribs and over Strictly From Nowhere. One rope will do.

Routes, left-to-right: 

Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs): 5.6, PG
Ribs: 5.4, PG (**)
Calisthenic: 5.7, PG
Gorilla My Dreams: 5.7, PG
Splashtic: 5.10a, PG-R
Gaston: 5.8, PG
Oscar and Charlie: 5.7, PG
Travels With Charley: 5.8-, R
Strictly From Nowhere: 5.7, PG (**)
Epiclepsy: 5.10, X
Shockley's Ceiling: 5.6, G
Mister Transistor: 5.10-, PG
PR: 5.11+, R
Grim-Ace Face: 5.9, PG
No Belle Prize: 5.10, R-X
Hi Coroner!: 5.9, PG
High Corner: 5.5, PG
Glyptomaniac: 5.8+, PG
Glyptodon: 5.8, PG
Nemesis: 5.10-, PG
Midnight Cowboy: 5.9+, R
Glypnod: 5.8, PG
Yesterday's Lemonade: 5.10-, PG-R
Anguish: 5.8, PG
Ruby Saturday: 5.9-, PG
Ruby Saturday Direct: 5.10a
Raspberry Sundae: 5.9+, PG
Simple Ceilings: 5.5, PG

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.7 miles from here

24 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for d. Strictly - Shockley's:
Ribs   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
High Corner   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 225'   
Shockley's Ceiling   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 275'   
Oscar and Charlie   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Strictly From Nowhere   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Glypnod   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Anguish   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Hi Coroner!   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Grim-Ace Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Midnight Cowboy   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Ruby Saturday Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Nemesis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
PR   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 150'   
Browse More Classics in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Featured Route For d. Strictly - Shockley's
Approaching the Strictly crux.

Strictly From Nowhere 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's
The large roof on the first pitch is the main reason to climb this route. It's a blast! P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling be...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of d. Strictly - Shockley's Slideshow Add Photo
Ribless climbs the left face and arete.  Ribs clim...
BETA PHOTO: Ribless climbs the left face and arete. Ribs clim...
Looking down the "High Corner" Steep,Fun...
Looking down the "High Corner" Steep,Fun...
This is the start of Splashtic, which is a little ...
This is the start of Splashtic, which is a little ...
I'm leading Shockley's as the last pitch of a Stri...
I'm leading Shockley's as the last pitch of a Stri...
Approaching the Strictly crux.
Approaching the Strictly crux.
P1 of Strictly
BETA PHOTO: P1 of Strictly

Comments on d. Strictly - Shockley's Add Comment
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By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Aug 19, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 
As of 8-15-14. The right hand bolt on the very top rap anchor is loose/ moves sideways in hole. Maybe just need a wrench to tighten up. Maybe needs to be re drilled.