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As of now, Canidae Cliff is officially closed for climbing.
You have several options to start this excellent route. 1) The line of first ascent takes a direct line below the first bolt on a right-hand crimp and a left hand thumb gaston. This leads up to side by side layback crimps and then straight up through tenuous moves up to ledge and first bolt (11b). 2) Var. 1: Start on Route C then traverse over to the first bolt (10a/b). 3) Var.2: Start on the Alternate Start to Lupus as described by its separate listing (as its significantly differnet and harder than these two starts). In all three cases, it may be advisable to either stick clip the first bolt or bring a pad and good spotter.
Once at the first bolt, climb up and right to second bolt and over block to a stance below the face. For full value, stick to the moves on the face and eliminate the flake on your right. Climb to a point below the overhang where you get a nice jug for your left hand in the crack to clip from (bolt not visible until you get the hold and lean out). Climb jugs and final crimps on face directly below and right of anchors. DO NOT GET SUCKERED INTO THE MUNGY, ROTTEN CORNER AT YOUR LEFT--FINISH EITHER DIRECTLY THROUGH THE ANCHOR OR SLIGHTLY TO ITS RIGHT!
6 bolts (all but the first 2 have hangers that allow you to back off the route without leaving gear; clip into hanger with a draw, then thread the hanger with the rope and rapell--do not lower off through the hanger as this will wear out the hanger).
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|By Chris treggE|
From: Madison, WI
Sep 30, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Fun moves, good route. The alternate start is very sandy.
|By Kiri Namtvedt|
Nov 6, 2007
Actually Shawn Tracy did the FA and bolted the route.
|By Glenn Burns|
From: St. Paul, MN
Nov 6, 2007
thanks for the update kiri.
i'll have to get the updated topo from you or shawn.
|By Shawn P. Tracy|
Nov 20, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
The first bolt may be higher up than some may be comfortable with considering the cruxy start. This is the result of the road shoulder's new grade (post summer 2007) changing to about 2-3 feet lower than when the route was established. Either use a pad and spotter, or stick clip if need be--Shawn Tracy.