D is for Dictory  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Jeff Walker Submitted By:  Drewsky on Dec 31, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Technically a variation to Fool's Gold, this begins on the start of that route (which is also the start to Heart of the Country). After the first section, clip a bolt and head up and left to a large golden flake. Jamming and Liebacking leads to a leftward traverse (use a long sling on your last cam) to a bolted corner which provides the crux.

Location 

Starts as for Heart of the Country and Fool's Gold via either side of a large flake. A 60m rope descends.

Protection 

Bolts and gear to #3 or 4 Camalot. Long slings are needed to reduce rope drag. The start is either a 5.9 squeeze or an unprotected 5.4 lieback/jam. Bring bigger gear if these options seem intimidating. Fixed anchors, possibly with old webbing.