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BETA PHOTO: Working through the roof.
This route passes a huge, low roof, 40' left of the large overhanging arete/left-facing corner. Work up on slabby rock to a tricky first bolt clip at the lip (in the interest of safety, the key here, solid foot-jam). Crank on small sloper holds with shotty feet to pull the lip and angle up-left on a few 8/9 slab moves to the chain top anchor. One (powerful and technical) move wonder. You can cheat the direct line by climbing left on blocky holds (5.7/8) and working back right to the bolt line. Doing this risks a ground fall. You can also start on Funky Gunky and traverse left after the 2nd bolt to finish on 5.8+ terrain to the chain anchors.
This is left of a huge, left-facing corner/arete.
By Doug Redosh
Jun 14, 2011
One can avoid the 11d roof and "Czech out" the upper face by coming in from Funky Gunky after the 2nd bolt. This makes a nice linkup, with some thoughtful face climbing.