This can be climbed in any condition. Some ice makes the climbing easier, but the protection more difficult (unless there's a lot of ice). With less ice, the rock gear is excellent and the mixed climbing a bit harder. Either way, it's a super excellent mixed route.
Go up the corner and follow a crack system to a ledge at two-thirds height. There's an old piton here. Go up a left-facing corner a final steep ice section.
There's a fixed anchor on a tree. You can *just* lower with a 60m rope.
Approach as for Sisters Left/Right, then walk down and left along the base of the cliff to the low point of the terrain. Continue uphill and left another 100' to a large, broken left-facing open book corner.
Screws and a full rock rack to 3".
The start of Cysty Ugler in dryish conditions.
BETA PHOTO: Cysty Ugler is the obvious ice just left of center...
|By M Hosmer|
From: Potsdam, NY
Feb 7, 2014
Great climb, can anyone tell me the distinction between this and Slutty Other I believe it is called in Blue Lines? Climbed this section of cliff last week but not really certain what exactly I was climbing. Just curious, either way it was all fun but afterwards reading the guide and viewing this page left me wondering.
|By Jim Lawyer|
Feb 8, 2014
I've always considered these to be the same line, but done in vastly different conditions.