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Cascade Pass
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Buster 
Cascade, The 
Cysty Ugler 
Green Gully 
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Pitchoff Right 
Sisters Right 
Three Flows 
Wetfoot 

Cysty Ugler 

WI3+ M4+

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus: WI3+ M4+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Mar 17, 2013
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Cysty Ugler: A climber moves onto the ledge at two...

Description 

This can be climbed in any condition. Some ice makes the climbing easier, but the protection more difficult (unless there's a lot of ice). With less ice, the rock gear is excellent and the mixed climbing a bit harder. Either way, it's a super excellent mixed route.

Go up the corner and follow a crack system to a ledge at two-thirds height. There's an old piton here. Go up a left-facing corner a final steep ice section.

There's a fixed anchor on a tree. You can *just* lower with a 60m rope.


Location 

Approach as for Sisters Left/Right, then walk down and left along the base of the cliff to the low point of the terrain. Continue uphill and left another 100' to a large, broken left-facing open book corner.


Protection 

Screws and a full rock rack to 3".



Photos of Cysty Ugler Slideshow Add Photo
The start of Cysty Ugler in dryish conditions.
The start of Cysty Ugler in dryish conditions.
Cysty Ugler is the obvious ice just left of center that reaches the bottom of the cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Cysty Ugler is the obvious ice just left of center...
Comments on Cysty Ugler Add Comment
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By M Hosmer
From: Potsdam, NY
Feb 7, 2014

Great climb, can anyone tell me the distinction between this and Slutty Other I believe it is called in Blue Lines? Climbed this section of cliff last week but not really certain what exactly I was climbing. Just curious, either way it was all fun but afterwards reading the guide and viewing this page left me wondering.

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Feb 8, 2014

I've always considered these to be the same line, but done in vastly different conditions.