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Cynical Pinnacle

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Route T 
Class Act S 
CMC Route T 
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 
Hand Job Direct T 
Monkey in the Forest T 
Off-width Route TR 
Rap Crack T 
Rising Crescendo T 
Turf Spreader T 
Twist O' Flex T 
Wunsch's Dihedral T 

Cynical Pinnacle 


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Location: 39.42059, -105.25164 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 225,692
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: John McNamee on Feb 17, 2006
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Couple of parties on the Prayer Book Feb. 24, 08.
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  • Description 

    Cynical Pinnacle is probably the most popular of the crags in the Cathedral Spires of the South Platte. Its prominent south-facing prow attracts the eye for miles. This spire hosts a number of fine routes. The ever popular Center Route gains the greatest lines & waits. However, Wunsch's Dihedral is an excellent sustained line for the intermediate to advanced crack climber. Turf Spreader draws the eye, but requires a pumpy roof to gain entry to its beautiful upper crack. The Prayer Book was once featured in a Jeff Lowe video. Breashear's Crack is a fun test piece for the advanced.


    Getting There 

    Walk uphill up one of the various of the trails ascending from the North Fork of the South Platte River. You may pass various abandoned relics from a different era along the way.


    Descent 

    Double ropes are necessary to rappel down the S face.


    Climbing Season


    12 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',2],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cynical Pinnacle:
    Hand Job Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Hand Job (aka West Face)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   
    Center Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Class Act   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Turf Spreader   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
    Wunsch's Dihedral   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 4 pitches   
    Rising Crescendo   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   
    Browse More Classics in Cynical Pinnacle

    Featured Route For Cynical Pinnacle
    Chris Breed on P2.

    Center Route 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CO : South Platte : ... : Cynical Pinnacle
    This route is three pitches of some of the best crack climbing around. I've heard it called the best 5.9 in the state. The first pitch is a hand/finger crack where you can use a little lie-backing. Belay at slings.The second pitch is the crux, it's a long pitch that leads up a perfect hand crack over a couple little bulges. Every jam is bomber, but, it is pretty sustained. Set a hanging belay once the crack is about to widen up. Note, the slings and the chockstone are disintegrating! A...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for Cynical Pinnacle
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    News
    Aug 29 Bentgate Is Hiring: Backcountry Ski Tech 0
    Aug 18 New Feature: Season Charts   4
    Aug 15 Wayne Crill's Fundraiser 0
    Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
    Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   6
    Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4

    [ Read All News ]
    Upcoming Events
    Sep 26Reel Rock 2014 - South Denver
    Photos of Cynical Pinnacle Slideshow Add Photo
    Cynical Pinnacle is the spire on the right hand skyline.
    Cynical Pinnacle is the spire on the right hand sk...
    2nd pitch of the great Center Route. Picture taken by Amy Haessly.
    2nd pitch of the great Center Route. Picture taken...
    It is usually climbable during the winter months, you may have to wait a couple of days for the snow to melt.
    BETA PHOTO: It is usually climbable during the winter months, ...
    The C.P. from a little closer on the approach. 'Wunch's Dihedral' and 'The Center Route' are pretty plainly visible from here.
    The C.P. from a little closer on the approach. 'Wu...
    The C.P. from the approach as seen in 1996. Photo by Tony Bubb.
    The C.P. from the approach as seen in 1996. Photo ...
    Rock is coarse grained but not decomposing. Lots of lichen.
    BETA PHOTO: Rock is coarse grained but not decomposing. Lots o...
    West Side.
    West Side.
    CYNICAL PINNACLE TOPO <br />
    CYNICAL PINNACLE TOPO
    From the Block Tower.
    From the Block Tower.
    More views as a reward for the steep approach.
    More views as a reward for the steep approach.
    Cynical Pinnacle.
    Cynical Pinnacle.
    Cynical Pinnacle.
    Cynical Pinnacle.
    Amazing views reminded me of Tahquitz.
    Amazing views reminded me of Tahquitz.
    West side of Cynical Pinnacle, taken from Sunshine Wall, Feb '09.
    West side of Cynical Pinnacle, taken from Sunshine...
    Summit anchor service with Buster Jesik, 9/17/13.
    BETA PHOTO: Summit anchor service with Buster Jesik, 9/17/13.
    Comments on Cynical Pinnacle Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Feb 15, 2009

    Just wanted to mention that you can get down from the summit with a 70m rope. From the shoulder on top of Center Route, run across the wall to the top of the handcrack on Turf Spreader (bolt and fixed nut). Then to the next bolted anchor on the slab and so on.

    By Kevin Stricker
    From: Evergreen, CO
    Feb 16, 2009

    A 60m rope works fine for this, just knot your ends when you penji right to the third pitch anchor of Turf Spreader.

    By slim
    Administrator
    Feb 16, 2009

    Haven't ever done it with a 60, but it sounds nervewracking. Probably want to be careful if doing so.

    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Feb 16, 2009

    A 60m works great for the descent. The last rap will put you on the ledge, which is part of the 4th class approach.

    The summit register and pin needs to be replaced. There are only a couple blank pages left.

    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Nov 9, 2010

    It is completely possible to rap with one 60m rope off the summit.

    1st: Rap from the summit to the shoulder at the top of Center Route.
    2nd: Rap off the normal anchors at the top of Center Route, trending climber's right to the top of the 3rd pitch of Turf Spreader. There is one bolt and a slung nest here that you can rap off of. ~90ft!! Tie knots!!!
    3rd: Rap off these anchors and trend back left to a double bolt anchor. Big pendulum here!
    4th: Rap straight down to a hidden anchor ~60-70 feet below.
    5th: Rap straight down to the 4th class ledges ~100ft

    I would recommend an autoblock. I did not use an autoblock and resorted to heel-toe cam acrobatics to traverse the large horizontal crack to get to the anchor at the top of turf spreader. ALSO TIE KNOTS!! The end of the rope is not far away on a couple of these raps.

    By Keith Leary
    Aug 5, 2011

    Found two ropes hanging at Cynical Pinnacle, if they are yours contact us at nctxclimber@gmail.com or wannabedirtbag@yahoo.com.

    By John Klooster
    From: Arvada, CO
    Aug 5, 2011

    Keith, I sent you an email. Thanks

    By JFisher
    Aug 18, 2012

    Great day up on Wunsch's on Thursday, 8/16 although my partner was unable to clean a yellow TCU 1/2 way up the 3rd pitch and somehow a purple BD c3 worked its way off my harness and fell (presumably) onto the 1st pitch ledges.... If anybody finds one/both of these, I would be EXTREMELY grateful. Thanks!

    By moby
    Oct 14, 2013

    If you left a black jacket and gloves below the Center Route on the Cynical Pinnacle on the 13th, I have them and will happly return them too you.
    rseal88@yahoo.com