Cynical Pinnacle is probably the most popular of the crags in the Cathedral Spires of the South Platte. It's prominent south-facing prow attracts the eye for miles. This spire hosts a number of fine routes. The ever popular Center Route gains the greatest lines & waits. However, Wunsch's Dihedral is an excellent sustained line for the intermediate to advanced crack climber. Turf Spreader draws the eye, but requires a pumpy roof to gain entry to its beautiful upper crack. The Prayer Book was once featured in a Jeff Lowe video. Breashear's Crack is a fun test piece for the advanced.
Walk uphill up one of the various of the trails ascending from the North Fork of the South Platte River. You may pass various abandoned relics from a different era along the way.
Double ropes are necessary to rappel down the S face.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cynical Pinnacle:
Featured Route For Cynical Pinnacle
: South Platte
: ... : Cynical Pinnacle
This route is three pitches of some of the best crack climbing around. I've heard it called the best 5.9 in the state. The first pitch is a hand/finger crack where you can use a little lie-backing. Belay at slings.The second pitch is the crux, it's a long pitch that leads up a perfect hand crack over a couple little bulges. Every jam is bomber, but, it is pretty sustained. Set a hanging belay once the crack is about to widen up. Note, the slings and the chockstone are disintegrating! A...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: It is usually climbable during the winter months, ...
The C.P. from the approach as seen in 1996. Photo ...
The C.P. from a little closer on the approach. 'Wu...
Cynical Pinnacle is the spire on the right hand sk...
CYNICAL PINNACLE TOPO
Couple of parties on the Prayer Book Feb. 24, 08.
West side of Cynical Pinnacle, taken from Sunshine...
2nd pitch of the great Center Route. Picture taken...
From the Block Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Rock is coarse grained but not decomposing. Lots o...
Amazing views reminded me of Tahquitz.
More views as a reward for the steep approach.
|Comments on Cynical Pinnacle
From: Morrison, Co
Feb 15, 2009
Just wanted to mention that you can get down from the summit with a 70m rope. From the shoulder on top of Center Route, run across the wall to the top of the handcrack on Turf Spreader (bolt and fixed nut). Then to the next bolted anchor on the slab and so on.
|By Kevin Stricker|
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 16, 2009
A 60m rope works fine for this, just knot your ends when you penji right to the third pitch anchor of Turf Spreader.
Feb 16, 2009
Haven't ever done it with a 60, but it sounds nervewracking. Probably want to be careful if doing so.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Feb 16, 2009
A 60m works great for the descent. The last rap will put you on the ledge, which is part of the 4th class approach.
The summit register and pin needs to be replaced. There are only a couple blank pages left.
|By Phil Lauffen|
Nov 9, 2010
It is completely possible to rap with one 60m rope off the summit.
1st: Rap from the summit to the shoulder at the top of Center Route.
2nd: Rap off the normal anchors at the top of Center Route, trending climber's right to the top of the 3rd pitch of Turf Spreader. There is one bolt and a slung nest here that you can rap off of. ~90ft!! Tie knots!!!
3rd: Rap off these anchors and trend back left to a double bolt anchor. Big pendulum here!
4th: Rap straight down to a hidden anchor ~60-70 feet below.
5th: Rap straight down to the 4th class ledges ~100ft
I would recommend an autoblock. I did not use an autoblock and resorted to heel-toe cam acrobatics to traverse the large horizontal crack to get to the anchor at the top of turf spreader. ALSO TIE KNOTS!! The end of the rope is not far away on a couple of these raps.
|By Keith Leary|
Aug 5, 2011
Found two ropes hanging at Cynical Pinnacle, if they are yours contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com.
|By John Klooster|
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 5, 2011
Keith, I sent you an email. Thanks
Aug 18, 2012
Great day up on Wunsch's on Thursday, 8/16 although my partner was unable to clean a yellow TCU 1/2 way up the 3rd pitch and somehow a purple BD c3 worked its way off my harness and fell (presumably) onto the 1st pitch ledges.... If anybody finds one/both of these, I would be EXTREMELY grateful. Thanks!