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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Route 
Class Act 
CMC Route 
Hand Job (aka West Face) 
Hand Job Direct 
Monkey in the Forest 
Off-width Route 
Rap Crack 
Rising Crescendo 
Turf Spreader 
Wunsch's Dihedral 

Cynical Pinnacle 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: John McNamee on Feb 17, 2006

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Cynical Pinnacle

Description 

Cynical Pinnacle is probably the most popular of the crags in the Cathedral Spires of the South Platte. It's prominent south-facing prow attracts the eye for miles. This spire hosts a number of fine routes. The ever popular Center Route gains the greatest lines & waits. However, Wunsch's Dihedral is an excellent sustained line for the intermediate to advanced crack climber. Turf Spreader draws the eye, but requires a pumpy roof to gain entry to its beautiful upper crack. The Prayer Book was once featured in a Jeff Lowe video. Breashear's Crack is a fun test piece for the advanced.


Getting There 

Walk uphill up one of the various of the trails ascending from the North Fork of the South Platte River. You may pass various abandoned relics from a different era along the way.


Descent 

Double ropes are necessary to rappel down the S face.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cynical Pinnacle:
Hand Job Direct   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Hand Job (aka West Face)   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   
Center Route   5.9+     Trad, 3 pitches   
Class Act   5.11b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Turf Spreader   5.11b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
Wunsch's Dihedral   5.11     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III   
Rising Crescendo   5.11c/d R     Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet   
Browse More Classics in Cynical Pinnacle

Featured Route For Cynical Pinnacle
Chris Breed on P2.

Center Route 5.9+  CO : South Platte : ... : Cynical Pinnacle
This route is three pitches of some of the best crack climbing around. I've heard it called the best 5.9 in the state. The first pitch is a hand/finger crack where you can use a little lie-backing. Belay at slings.The second pitch is the crux, it's a long pitch that leads up a perfect hand crack over a couple little bulges. Every jam is bomber, but, it is pretty sustained. Set a hanging belay once the crack is about to widen up. Note, the slings and the chockstone are disintegrating! A...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Cynical Pinnacle Slideshow Add Photo
It is usually climbable during the winter months, you may have to wait a couple of days for the snow to melt.

BETA PHOTO: It is usually climbable during the winter months, ...

The C.P. from the approach as seen in 1996. Photo by Tony Bubb.

The C.P. from the approach as seen in 1996. Photo ...

The C.P. from a little closer on the approach. 'Wunch's Dihedral' and 'The Center Route' are pretty plainly visible from here.

The C.P. from a little closer on the approach. 'Wu...

Cynical Pinnacle is the spire on the right hand skyline.

Cynical Pinnacle is the spire on the right hand sk...

CYNICAL PINNACLE TOPO <br />

CYNICAL PINNACLE TOPO


Couple of parties on the Prayer Book Feb. 24, 08. <br />

Couple of parties on the Prayer Book Feb. 24, 08.


West side of Cynical Pinnacle, taken from Sunshine Wall, Feb '09.

West side of Cynical Pinnacle, taken from Sunshine...

2nd pitch of the great Center Route. Picture taken by Amy Haessly.

2nd pitch of the great Center Route. Picture taken...

From the Block Tower.

From the Block Tower.

West Side.

West Side.

Cynical Pinnacle.

Cynical Pinnacle.

Rock is coarse grained but not decomposing. Lots of lichen.

BETA PHOTO: Rock is coarse grained but not decomposing. Lots o...

Amazing views reminded me of Tahquitz.

Amazing views reminded me of Tahquitz.

More views as a reward for the steep approach.

More views as a reward for the steep approach.


Comments on Cynical Pinnacle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Feb 15, 2009

Just wanted to mention that you can get down from the summit with a 70m rope. From the shoulder on top of Center Route, run across the wall to the top of the handcrack on Turf Spreader (bolt and fixed nut). Then to the next bolted anchor on the slab and so on.

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 16, 2009

A 60m rope works fine for this, just knot your ends when you penji right to the third pitch anchor of Turf Spreader.

By slim
Feb 16, 2009

Haven't ever done it with a 60, but it sounds nervewracking. Probably want to be careful if doing so.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Feb 16, 2009

A 60m works great for the descent. The last rap will put you on the ledge, which is part of the 4th class approach.

The summit register and pin needs to be replaced. There are only a couple blank pages left.

By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Nov 9, 2010

It is completely possible to rap with one 60m rope off the summit.

1st: Rap from the summit to the shoulder at the top of Center Route.
2nd: Rap off the normal anchors at the top of Center Route, trending climber's right to the top of the 3rd pitch of Turf Spreader. There is one bolt and a slung nest here that you can rap off of. ~90ft!! Tie knots!!!
3rd: Rap off these anchors and trend back left to a double bolt anchor. Big pendulum here!
4th: Rap straight down to a hidden anchor ~60-70 feet below.
5th: Rap straight down to the 4th class ledges ~100ft

I would recommend an autoblock. I did not use an autoblock and resorted to heel-toe cam acrobatics to traverse the large horizontal crack to get to the anchor at the top of turf spreader. ALSO TIE KNOTS!! The end of the rope is not far away on a couple of these raps.

By Keith Leary
Aug 5, 2011

Found two ropes hanging at Cynical Pinnacle, if they are yours contact us at nctxclimber@gmail.com or wannabedirtbag@yahoo.com.

By John Klooster
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 5, 2011

Keith, I sent you an email. Thanks

By JFisher
Aug 18, 2012

Great day up on Wunsch's on Thursday, 8/16 although my partner was unable to clean a yellow TCU 1/2 way up the 3rd pitch and somehow a purple BD c3 worked its way off my harness and fell (presumably) onto the 1st pitch ledges.... If anybody finds one/both of these, I would be EXTREMELY grateful. Thanks!