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Monster Wall
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Cyclops S 
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Werepig S 

Cyclops 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Josh Smith
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 754
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Mar 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Josh Smith on the First Ascent at the crux of Cycl...

Description 

Very fun route (with a single big brown eye right in the middle) The close first three bolts should keep you from decking.


Location 

Middle of the wall, just right of the big bulge with the fixed chain hanging from it mid-way.


Protection 

QDs



Photos of Cyclops Slideshow Add Photo
Ben makes the small pocket climbing start look easy <br />Cyclops (5.11+)
Ben makes the small pocket climbing start look eas...
Showing the steepness of Cyclops. Josh on the FA.
Showing the steepness of Cyclops. Josh on the FA.
Moving up above the eye <br />Cyclops (5.11+)
Moving up above the eye
Cyclops (5.11+)
Comments on Cyclops Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 22, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

You can also start up Werepig (the next climb to the right) for 3 bolts, then move left to Cyclops for upper half, for a slightly easier (~5.11b) variation to these climbs, bypassing Cyclop's small pocket crux.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Dec 7, 2010

The start is so confusing until you watch someone who has it wired (Josh) do it, then it isn't so bad.

By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
May 16, 2012

man this is such a hard trad line.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 16, 2012

OK, noted and fixed.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 9, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

During the closure of this area this summer (2013), rodents and birds took up residence in many of the big holes on this wall. Most notably, the big hole above the eponymous "cyclops" hole on this route has a big nest in it and a truly impressive mound of feces below it. Watch where you put your hands!