Cut Loose 5.11-
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Kirk Miller, Adam Schrader |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Kirk Miller on Aug 30, 2009 |
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Skate like Superman!
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Description Clip the first two bolts on Bear's Choice then head left into the middle of the roof. Getting the jug that lets you Cut Loose is the crux, match and let 'em fly.
Location This climbs the center of the roof, up... up... and away.
Protection 7 bolts to chains.
The roof crux.
| A nice rest before the crux roof.
| Easy climbing up to the roof section.
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By Derek Lawrence From: Bailey Sep 11, 2009
| VERY height dependent crux! Felt 11+ to me, but I still didn't get it... (I'm 5'9") Another friend (also short) got it and said it felt 11+/12-. Kirk makes it look easy but he's 6'2".... |
By Doug Redosh From: golden, CO Sep 16, 2009
| I am 6'2" and still had trouble. Wear pants for this one, as it is a knee scratcher. |
By Sung From: Denver, CO Sep 30, 2009
| Tough route if you are shorter (I'm 5'8"). I led the other 11 here clean, but no chance on this one even on toprope. |
By koreo From: Denver, CO Oct 1, 2009
| Lead this one today in that wicked wind. First try, got to the crux and was perplexed. The feet are horrible. I personally thought this wasn't very height dependent after I figured it out. Sure a tall person will have an easier time, but I'm 5'6" and I 'sent it on my second attempt. You have to get creative with your feet. Don't get me wrong though, the move to start the crux is hard as hell. If anyone wants my beta give a shout and I'd be happy to post it. |
By dameeser From: denver Mar 31, 2010
| I just jumped for it, so did my partner. Feet were not that important to me on that one. |
By Cael Bean Apr 19, 2010
| Climbed this on Sunday with 4 stitches in my right index finger, did not feel like an 11, felt more like a stiff 10. It really is a one move wonder, A nice undercling to a few good jugs, pull up then place your feet. Did it for the first time lead last fall also. |
By Spencer Purvis From: Golden, CO. Mar 14, 2011 rating: 5.11a
| Yup, very height dependent.... I am 5'11", and I think it would be a different move altogether if I was 5'10". This is one where reach makes a difference for sure! |
By Fred C. From: Golden, CO Apr 29, 2011 rating: 5.11a
| Great route. Tough crux move if shorter (I'm 5'6"), but very doable. Took me a few tries to get it. It's an easy climb to the roof and after the crux move over it, but those few moves in between definitely define it and make it the 10+/11- that it is. Great bolt protection throughout. |
By Jon Zucco From: Denver, CO May 7, 2011 rating: 5.11a PG13
| I'm 5'8" and had to stretch pretty darn hard to reach the onsight (the key hold is an optical illusion in that it doesn't look like anything from below). After you gain the positive edge, it's just a high step and a hard pull to the easy stuff on the headwall above. This climb receives no fun points from me. Not worth doing IMO unless you are tall and trying to add an eleven to your tick list; it is an annoying 10+/11- move with ledge fall potential in the midst of a dull 5.7 face. Sorry to be such a negative Nancy; on a lighter note, the 11 face around the corner is among the best in the Denver area :) |
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO May 10, 2011
| I think this is the worst route at the cliff... maybe it is my being short bias, but it isn't any fun. Boring 5.7 climbing to the roof followed by a ridiculous reach. If you can get the jug, it is one interesting 10+ move to pull over the roof, followed by more boring climbing. I'm way too short to reach the jug and was trying to bump up on crap, but the rope kept getting in my way. Either you don't clip the bolt above the roof and risk a ledge fall, or the rope makes in very hard to get your hand up and your foot around. |
By percious From: Bear Creek, CO Jun 24, 2011 rating: 5.11a
| Interesting 5.10-ish moves for the first two clips give way to the roof. There was a hornet's nest forming at the roof which I demolished before finishing out the climb. The crux sequence is fun, and a bit committing. There are some small holds that are useful for shorter climbers under the roof. One 5.11 move guarantees the summit. You can clip with one hand off the jug off the roof with your feet dangling, not that I'd ever do anything like that ;-). Fun for spectators and climbers alike. Give it a go! |
By Jonathan Dykhuis Jul 14, 2011 rating: 5.11-
| The roof is interesting. The rest of the climb is enjoyable but not difficult. |
By Robbie Flick From: Denver, CO Jul 30, 2011 rating: 5.11-
| Definitely height dependent. I'm 5'11" and have to leap for it. |
By J P From: Denver, CO Aug 28, 2011 rating: 5.10b/c
| Even at 5'8" I didn't have to jump far to get the rail on the roof. I'm not sure height is an issue so much as committing to reach over -- it definitely feels exposed up there. The little left-hand flake on the lip of the roof helps a little, but you're better off throwing for the roof as soon as you have even a marginal grip on it. It might be possible that being too tall makes pulling over the roof more difficult. After you get both hands on the rail, you'd have to scrunch up pretty good to put your feet on if you were tall. |
By NickinCO From: Westminster, CO Mar 31, 2012 rating: 5.11-
| 1 move wonder. 11-/10+ I/m 6'1", it's not a bad reach, it's just committing. The jug is huge. |
By Chris Plesko From: Westminster, CO Apr 21, 2013
| I'm 5'11" +0 ape, and I can do the move statically. I'll decline to grade, but this is worlds easier than Walking with a Ghost at 11b. |
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