2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This variation starts from the lower tier of the big ledge at the base of Cussin' Crack proper. From a fixed angle follow the crack system immediately right of the diheadral on Cussin' Crack (.9+). Join Sticky fingers just before attaining a bush covered ledge and follow that route to a two bolt anchor. This anchor should be backed up or avoided altogether as both bolts are 1/4". Pitch two (.9s) ascends up and left on slopers from the right end of the belay ledge. This is the same point where Western Pleasure and After Forever meet. A fixed lost arrow protects the first moves onto the face and a couple of TCU or Alien placements can be found before reaching a crack/flake that leads to the top.
Standard rack. Fixed pins at the start of both pitches and double (1/4") bolt anchor at the end of pitch one. Walk off from the top.