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Castle Rock
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Cussing Fingers Variant 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 632
Submitted By: Mike Munger on Jun 19, 2007

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This variation starts from the lower tier of the big ledge at the base of Cussin' Crack proper. From a fixed angle follow the crack system immediately right of the diheadral on Cussin' Crack (.9+). Join Sticky fingers just before attaining a bush covered ledge and follow that route to a two bolt anchor. This anchor should be backed up or avoided altogether as both bolts are 1/4". Pitch two (.9s) ascends up and left on slopers from the right end of the belay ledge. This is the same point where Western Pleasure and After Forever meet. A fixed lost arrow protects the first moves onto the face and a couple of TCU or Alien placements can be found before reaching a crack/flake that leads to the top.


Protection 

Standard rack. Fixed pins at the start of both pitches and double (1/4") bolt anchor at the end of pitch one. Walk off from the top.



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