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 ADVANCED
4. Many Cracks Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abby's Bulge TR 
Cussin' Crack T,TR 
Dirty, Hard, and Worth Doing TR 
Incapacitation T,TR 
Klinger, The TR 
Noseprick T,TR 
Stairway to Pizza Ranch TR 
Third Time's a Charm T,TR 

Cussin' Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on Jul 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Climb blocky stuff with ease for five to ten feet then follow the crack and find the crux about 3/4 of the way up. My vote is 5.8, but I've entered the guidebook rating of 5.8+.

Location 

The fourth crack counting from the climber's right (not counting The Klinger.)

Protection 

Standard TR set up. There are solid cracks for your anchor on this one (big 3"-4" cams helpful.)


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By Jeff J.
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Jun 13, 2011

If stoppers and an occasional tricam are your thing, then this is a good lead. There were probably some places to jimmy a cam into, but it can be done without them. Good cracks for anchor above