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4. Many Cracks Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abby's Bulge TR 
Cussin' Crack T,TR 
Dirty, Hard, and Worth Doing TR 
Incapacitation T,TR 
Klinger, The TR 
Noseprick T,TR 
Stairway to Pizza Ranch TR 
Third Time's a Charm T,TR 

Cussin' Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on Jul 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Begin on the third crack from the climber's right (not counting The Klinger) and climb blocky stuff with ease for five to ten feet. Follow the crack and find the crux about 3/4 of the way up. 5.8 seemed like a pretty accurate rating to me, but I've entered the guidebook rating of 5.8+.


The fourth crack counting from the climber's right (not counting The Klinger.)


Standard TR set up. There are solid cracks for your anchor on this one (big 3"-4" cams helpful.)

This route could probably be protected on lead but I TR'd it. You can see the whole crack from the ground.

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By Jeff J.
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Jun 13, 2011

If stoppers and an occasional tricam are your thing, then this is a good lead. There were probably some places to jimmy a cam into, but it can be done without them. Good cracks for anchor above