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 ADVANCED
4. Many Cracks Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abby's Bulge 
Cussin' Crack 
Dirty, Hard, and Worth Doing 
Incapacitation 
Klinger, The 
Noseprick 
Stairway to Pizza Ranch 
Third Time's a Charm 

Cussin' Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 273
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on Jul 26, 2009
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Description 

Begin on the third crack from the climber's right (not counting The Klinger) and climb blocky stuff with ease for five to ten feet. Follow the crack and find the crux about 3/4 of the way up. 5.8 seemed like a pretty accurate rating to me, but I've entered the guidebook rating of 5.8+.


Location 

The fourth crack counting from the climber's right (not counting The Klinger.)


Protection 

Standard TR set up. There are solid cracks for your anchor on this one (big 3"-4" cams helpful.)

This route could probably be protected on lead but I TR'd it. You can see the whole crack from the ground.



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By Jeff J.
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Jun 13, 2011

If stoppers and an occasional tricam are your thing, then this is a good lead. There were probably some places to jimmy a cam into, but it can be done without them. Good cracks for anchor above