Type: Trad
FA: Tink Wilson, 1961 FFA Pat Ament and Dave Rearick, 1964
Page Views: 11,549 total · 41/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start on the west face of Castle Rock, about 15' left of Bailey's Overhang. Climb a beautiful left-curving dihedral with THIN crack/seam ... looks very Yosemite-esque. Starts out with lieback or hand jams up a steep crack and continues up the beautiful and slippery corner ... stem like crazy to the top, turn a small roof and cruise to the anchor.

Protection Suggest change

Small cams (Aliens or TCUs) for the meat...hand-sized for the start. The anchor is a 2-bolt chain anchor...one of the bolts seemed pretty loose, so if you TR, I suggest backing it up with a #0.75 Camalot Jr. or equivalent in a nearby crack.

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