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Old Sandstone
Routes Sorted
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"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack T 
Alligator Wall T,TR 
American Beauty Crack T,TR 
Baker Street TR 
Broken Foot T 
Chez's Chimney T,TR 
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 
Curving Crack T,TR 
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 
Deceptive T,TR 
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 
Everleigh Club Crack T 
Freaky Face T,TR 
Gargantua T,TR 
Girls Named Sue T 
Half Crack T,TR 
Has Been T,TR 
High Life, The TR 
Mammalary Magic T,TR 
One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

Curving Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,821
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 10, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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Ellen on the lead.

Description 

The Curving Crack is a great moderate climb that requires some tricky jamming towards the top of the route. Start out with some blocky moves and move up along the crack, curving towards the right. About half way up the route have the option of using only the crack (harder) or using a shallow dihedral to the right to stem up. The top of the climb holds the crux where you seem to hit a dead-end.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Curving Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Dunbar Carpenter
Dunbar Carpenter
Curving Crack (8), Deceptive (9), and Out There (10)
BETA PHOTO: Curving Crack (8), Deceptive (9), and Out There (1...
Clipping last piece <br /> <br />photo by: John Knoernschild
Clipping last piece

photo by: John Knoernschild
Wes Anderson ascending Curving Crack
Wes Anderson ascending Curving Crack
Wes Anderson setting up for a smear on Curving Crack.
Wes Anderson setting up for a smear on Curving Cra...
Burt Preston near the crux of Curving Crack.
Burt Preston near the crux of Curving Crack.
Wes Anderson down low on Curving Crack.
Wes Anderson down low on Curving Crack.
Chris Keller topping out on Curving Crack <br /> <br />photo by :John Knoernschild
Chris Keller topping out on Curving Crack

photo b...
Adam Therneau leading Curving Crack. August, 2003.
Adam Therneau leading Curving Crack. August, 2003.
Ellen plugging along.
Ellen plugging along.
Chris Keller leading Curving Crack  <br /> <br />photo by: John Knoernschild
Chris Keller leading Curving Crack

photo by: Joh...
Mike Sohasky leading his first 5.8 at DL.
Mike Sohasky leading his first 5.8 at DL.

Comments on Curving Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 20, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 26, 2002

we use to rate curving crack 5.6
By Ishmail
From: Utah
Sep 7, 2007

The moves are a bit awkward b/c you have to go deep for good jams, but good fun and a nice lead. A few lost cams Wise use of runners is a way to keep your gear.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 3, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

FA??
By BryanR
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2008

felt like a 5.6 on a top rope but i would imagine it a bit trickier on lead.
By Ta-Chi Wang
May 24, 2009

Great route! 5.8 at least by leading. Using layback to pass the top crux makes the route even more enjoyable.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is stupid. All the goddamn cams stuck in this stupid route should give you a clue that leading it although it may seem cool is not because you'll lose a cam or 12. I lost a #3 Camalot in it today. This route is stupid, dirty and not fun. Also, this route is stupid.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 6, 2011

Hmmm. So what you are saying is there is a stuck #3 camalot on this route. I think I am free tomorrow afternoon... Thanks Andy!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Chris, you can have it! I worked at it for a bit but gave up thinking that it was a good sacrifice to the climbing gods and hopefully they'll put me on a route that is more fun than this pile. Also, it's a #3 that I bootied 2 years ago so it's come full circle.
By Paul Campbell
From: Pewaukee, WI
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route does not suck Andy! Blasphemy!
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jul 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

i dislike the fact this route can be climbed as a face climb...that is weak! this climb is legit, stay off the face and climb the crack!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Face climbs rule all!!!!!
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jun 19, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I know you could climb this on the face, but why would you want to? Those jams are really nice. Great route to teach crack climbing with.
By Tom Lausch
From: Madison WI
Jun 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good lead. Swallows gear all the way up. Save your larger cams for near the top. Pulling the top 5' as a layback increases the difficulty. Good climb overall.