This secluded, seldom-done climb is worth seeking out.
The route climbs a left-arching thin crack and ramp with a pine tree at the top, starting in an alcove left of the Three Dihedrals; see www.boulderclimbs.com/climbing/avalon3.html
Approach: There are two ways to get to the climb:
1. From the creek, climb up the talus field above the Tyrolean traverse to the branch trail to Tarot Wall. Go 30' left on the branch trail, then head right and up on a faint trail. Continue up until you can cut left across some rocks below the three dihedrals to a wooded gully. Go up the gully to an alcove at the start of the climb.
2. From the Dominator-Clipboard area, head downhill past the big dead tree. At your first opportunity, cut right across some rocks below the three dihedrals to a wooded gully. Go up the gully to an alcove at the start of the climb.
The route: stem the corner at the back of the alcove to a stance just right of the crack. Step left and climb the crack and ramp. Belay from the pine tree at the top.
Descent: rappel 40' from slings and rings on the tree.
I used gear from a blue to an orange Alien and a #3 Ball Nut for pro. Double green and yellow Aliens are useful.
Sustained, interesting climbing; would get two stars if it were longer.
Gear to 1". Aliens work very well.
Nickie Kelly removing pro before laybacking up the...
Nickie Kelly laybacking the ramp to the top of Cur...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
Sustained? We thought it was a 1-move wonder.
|By Clint Locks|
Jun 2, 2013
Not the greatest gear in the world. So sparse that my partner decided (wisely?) to climb the dirty crack to the right instead. There was no anchor at all on the tree. As of now, there is a single sling and carabiner that we left to lower. We did not do extensive recon to locate a walk-off. Definitely not worth the effort, in my opinion.