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West Face
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Amber T 
American Beauty S 
Curve of Binding Energy S 
Furious Howard Brown S 
Mercy Drilling T,S 
North Crack T 
Other One, The S 
Pocket Fisherman S 
Shakedown Street S 
Space Goats S 
Wise Crack S 

Curve of Binding Energy 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 2000
Page Views: 1,201
Submitted By: Elijah Flenner on Jan 1, 2001

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Working the overhanging start.
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Description 

This route climbs just to the right of the left arete on the West Face of Surprising Crag. It starts up a large lieback flake to a crux pulling the lip. The second bolt is hard to clip. After the crux, there is a short hard section to much easier climbing to the anchor, which is up and right. The left anchor is for Pocket Fisherman.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Curve of Binding Energy Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the lip.
Pulling the lip.
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By Anonymous Coward
May 6, 2002

The guidebook suggestion to place a long draw on the second bolt is helpful. Otherwise, make sure your belayer is right underneath you and paying attention. Too bad I had to climb the miserable route to the left to set it up.

By S. F. Pitman
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 23, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I really enjoyed this route. Making that first clip would be much less frightening if you had a bouldering pad. The moves never really seemed to get into the .12 range to me, but I haven't climbed much at the grade in Boulder Canyon, so it could just be a matter of [lack of] perspective.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 30, 2011

Massive, drilled jug holds at the beginning. Way lame, and also completely unnecessary.

By Elijah Flenner
Feb 4, 2013

I did not notice the drilled holds at the bottom the many years ago that I first did the route. One is in a natural foot placement, but I don't use the others. I think the one can be avoided with the foot, but it is lame that it exists at all.

By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 26, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Would love to see that second bolt placed lower, so you don't break an ankle if you fall and also so you don't have the draw hanging right in the middle of the hold.