|Icefields Parkway - North
|Type: ||Ice, 2 pitches, 410', Grade III|
|Consensus: ||WI6 [details]|
|FA: ||Mike Weis and partner|
|Page Views: ||1,092|
|Submitted By: ||Dave Rone on Aug 26, 2011|
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BETA PHOTO: Curtain Call from the road. Wow!
One of the more impressive routes on the Parkway, steep and sustained! In addition to the fact that you're climbing vertical ice most of the way, you have to deal with the overhanging mushrooms that form in the middle of the route. While not real difficult to climb, these mushrooms can make protection challenging.
Climb up a short apron of ice to the base and then run the rope out to the middle of the route, encountering the mushrooms near the end of the pitch. Belay off screws and/or cord, usually on the right side of the route, but sometimes on the left.
The second pitch starts out climbing mushrooms again, leading to better ice which is followed to the top of the route. Another very long pitch. Belay off screws and v-threads.
Curtain Call is on the east side of the Parkway, about 14k north of the Icefields Visitor Center. You can't miss seeing it from the road.
Park off the road directly below the route. Approach through trees to the left of the route then back right up a steep and somewhat slippery slope below the route.
Rappel from v-threads or descend an avalanche prone slope to the right.
A good selection of screws and cord for v-threads.