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Curtain Call 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ron Olsen, Brenda Leach, and Yvonne D'Andrea, 10/29/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,796
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 3, 2007
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Description 

Curtain Call is a 2-pitch mixed route that starts just left of Local Hero. The first pitch has some steep face climbing and moderate slabs; the second pitch climbs a direct line up the Showtime arete.

Most likely, this will be the last new route on Tonnere Tower for the 2007 season. I would like to thank my first-ascent partners for their help in establishing all the fine routes on this crag. Their photos can be found in the Curtain Call album. Here is the Wikipedia definition of Curtain Call.

Start at a steep face about 15' left of Local Hero.

P1: Climb up to to a small roof, step left, and continue up to a lower-angle slab. Climb the slab past a bolt, and step right to a short steep wall. Clip a second bolt and crank up right to another slab. Climb the slab and move up right to a corner capped by a roof. Clip a third bolt, and traverse left under the roof (crux). Climb steep cracks to a ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.8, 90'.

Nice climbing at the beginning and end of the pitch, but the easy slabs in the middle drop the rating to one star.

P2: Step left from the anchor onto an arete. Climb straight up the arete, merging with Showtime after 40'. Follow Showtime to the top of the pinnacle. Stay left as much as possible for the best climbing line. You can also finish up on Dutch Treat, which climbs cracks in the center of the pinnacle, instead of staying left on Showtime. 5.8+, 120'.

This is a great pitch; the best pure trad pitch on the crag. Three stars.

Descent: If you have a 60m rope, rappel 95' down to the anchor on The B Boys (this anchor is about 20' above the first-pitch anchor on Curtain Call). Then rappel 100' down to the gully just above the start, and do an easy 20' downclimb.

If you have a 70m rope, rappel 115' down to the anchor atop the first pitch of Curtain Call, then rappel 110' down to the start.


Location 

Start about 15' left of Local Hero at a short steep face. Eds. the beta photos have been deleted by their submitter.


Protection 

P1: 3 bolts and gear to a #3 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.
P2: Gear to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.



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By Gregory Schrodt
From: Lyons, CO
May 18, 2008

Awesome route, the best of the day 5/17... Even though the route has the low angle slab in the middle of the 1st, it's still got some super sweet sections, especially the 2nd pitch. Another awesome route from Ron O. As I've been climbing here all day, I've seen so many people @ Boulder Falls parking lot taking pictures of everyone climbing... it's funny to think of all the homes across the country our pictures make it in to... we're all famous ;)

By Matt Gates
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Jun 3, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Climbed this with Gregory. We actually ended on Dutch Treat and finished at the anchors up and right of Showtime. Super fun!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2009

Climbed P1 yesterday and branched off to intercept Smooth Operator. Blah...
Wish I'd done P2.