I thought that this climb was a fun climb at the grade. This climb starts up a crack and corner, just right of Final Act. This crack runs out soon, so the climb then heads up a puckered-crack and flakes up diagonally right to another crack above the starting position. This is the left-most of the two twin cracks on the upper half of the crag, the right one being the top end of Psycho Groove.
The climb is quite fun and protects reasonably. Most of the holds are large and secure, particularly up high where the climb gets steeper, but remarkably, easier!
Belay up top using gear, then walk off to the south (climber's left) and scramble down the gully.
A standard rack to 3"
Cat zooming up the crux on her first trad lead!
BETA PHOTO: Playhouse Left Side
decent resting ledge on Curtain Call
|By Scott Edlin|
From: boulder, co
Apr 12, 2006
fun climb. the crux move involves smearing with not-so-great pro.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 16, 2008
Fun climb for the grade. More of a face climb with cracks for protection.
From: Temecula, CA
Mar 22, 2010
First protective piece is easy to place up an easy 25 foot start of route. The problem is being able to place the second protective hardware (in the cracks whcih are too small and flaring) without running out another 15-20 feet. I risked the run out, found a good jug handhold and then lost my footing dangling 15 feet above my first protection. If you are having any doubts to lead this route it is best to first climb the more easily protective route of "Final Act" (route to left of Curtain Call) and then set up a top rope at two anchors 10 feet to climber's right of Curtain Call.
|By Grace C|
From: Claremont, CA
Apr 25, 2010
TinMan's got it right- I did this climb today and even though 6's are typically warm-ups for me, I found the runout after my first piece to be pretty intimidating. To make matters worse, the move that you have to make on said runout is definitely the crux (and a pretty stiff crux for a 5.6 imo). It did, however, look like you could protect it nicely with a very small cam, but, of course, I didn't have one
From: Los Angeles
Mar 31, 2012
Final Act doesn't seem to have great pro either. If you're gonna TR it, might as well just walk up and around to the top. There are big boulders up there to sling, but quite a ways back from the edge. There were also 2 bolts hangers, and maybe quicklinks but I can't remember.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 3, 2012
Seems like the poor-man's version of Psycho Groove. Although, a budding .6 leader may think twice about the lead. Not overly hard but agreed the gear would be intimidating. We did it with no knowledge of what it is or the grade on TR for some mileage.
|By Dave Kos|
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good route, but I also agree it would be heady for new leader. It protects well enough, but the most difficult section is a bit committing. A key hold, a black knob, may be a reach for anyone shorter than 5'9''. A 3/4 inch cam (I used a yellow alien) fits nicely in a pin scar above the knob once you get it.