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Current Tahquitz Conditions?
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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Mar 6, 2014
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

I was looking at tenps up there this weekend and was curious if Tahquitz and Suicide are dried out after the recent precip event? I have never been but have some partners interested if conditoons are worth the trek South.

Thanks!


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By Tradoholic
Mar 6, 2014

Probably ok, call the Nomad shop and talk to Jim.


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By Ryan Strickland
From Idyllwild, CA
Mar 6, 2014

South face of Tahquitz was looking pretty dry yesterday afternoon. There's probably a water streak or two running down the face and any large huecos will likely have some water. The trough area is probably pretty wet; it sure looks that way from below. Suicide will be much more dry, with a few exceptions. There is still snow on the tops of the rock and many of the ledges at both rocks. Here are your best bets, in my opinion, for good dry rock with little snowy hassle:

Buttress of Cracks and all faces south of this. The Weeping wall and Rebolting Face are probably mostly dry, but I'd expect some snow at the base.

From Open Book through the whole south face (expect a water streak on the heady slab traverse for P3 of Open Book). I'm sure numerous routes on the West Face are mostly dry.

The Maiden Buttress is probably pretty dry too, with the exception of ledges.


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Mar 6, 2014
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

Thanks for the info! Looks like Zion it is this weekend...


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By Chris G.
From San Diego, CA
Mar 10, 2014
The Gallery, Red Rocks

Went to Tahquitz yesterday and climbed open book. Route was perfectly dry and the weather was amazing!!! A little snow on the trail in the shade and on the friction decent which made for a somewhat sketchy walk off. Let me know how Zion is, I am going on the 31st and have never been before.


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Mar 10, 2014
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

Zion was awful, temperatures sucked, conditions sucked...don't go there!!!!!!!!!


In all seriousness, that place is my favorite climbing area bar none and the conditions don't get much better than they are right now. We were able to climb sun or shade (sun got a bit hot on sunday) and most areas were empty...enjoy, it is a truly special place!


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By Chris G.
From San Diego, CA
Mar 10, 2014
The Gallery, Red Rocks

Awesome can't wait! Any guidebook recommendations? Also we are looking for sport 10-11 range and gear/cracks around 9-10a/b.

Thanks!


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Mar 10, 2014
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

The SuperTopo is adequate for the main canyon. Most of the sport climbing is in the Kolob canyon, haven't been there but look up routes like Huecos Rancheros on here for a starter as far as sport is concerned.

For trad, start out with the first pitch of Cherry Crack, do Squeeze Play, the first section of Fails of Power is 10c but straightforward, The Headache is awesome (forget if that is impacted by the falcon closures, check at the visitor's center), and stuff in the Confluence area is awesome as well. The whole place is fantastic.

Make sure you bring lots of gear and use your eyes, not necessarily the guidebook, to ascertain what you will need. Not sure of your sandstone experience, but it is softer than Red Rock at Zion as far as the rock is concerned, not so with the grades...


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By Chris G.
From San Diego, CA
Mar 10, 2014
The Gallery, Red Rocks

great stuff. Thank you!!


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By Ryan Strickland
From Idyllwild, CA
Mar 13, 2014

I went up to do Whodunnit yesterday. From what we could see from the base, the entire climb is dry or mostly dry. However, we couldn't access the start of the route. There was hard packed ice/snow leading all the way to the start; it was much too hard to kick steps. This would be easily doable with crampons or an ax, but we had neither. A slip on the approach wouldn't be too good; you'd slide uncontrollably for a hundred feet or so down a 40-60 degree slope.

We climbed White Maiden instead. The whole climb is dry and there are only a few small patches of snow on some of the upper ledges.

There is also snow at the base of the Trough and Dave's Deviation.

Open Book is 100% dry. No water streak on the third pitch.

The friction descent has a few minor water streaks, but nothing that isn't easily dealt with.

It'll be a great weekend up here on the west and south faces!


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By Adam Burch
From San Dieger
Mar 13, 2014
you local?

Ryan, thanks for being such a great source for Tahquitz conditions. In a pinch, slender long rocks you can hold in your hand make a decent ice axe.

Heading up there tomorrow (in case any internet tough guys want to meet up and arm wrestle) - I'll post up what I find.


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By Ryan Strickland
From Idyllwild, CA
Mar 13, 2014

I attempted it with a pointed tree branch, but it broke rather quickly... I haven't tried the rock method yet. I'll give that a try sometime.


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By Adam Burch
From San Dieger
Mar 15, 2014
you local?

Tahquitz was glorious yesterday, but twas bitter sweet. We saw maybe a tablespoon of snow on the way around to fingertrip, and down from the top skirting the south side. You could see small patches of snow on the North still from the parking lot, but I'm not sure about the base. We were in the shade for most of the climb on FT, and felt good in a thin long sleeve until the wind blew a little too much. We were shy on small cams, so we were nut-placing-machines. Good times.



3rd classin
3rd classin



so nice to be out
so nice to be out


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By RJNakata
From SoCal
Mar 26, 2014

any updated reports after today's weather would be welcomed!


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By RJNakata
From SoCal
Apr 1, 2014

Ok,
Left Ski Track today. Sunny, breezy, cool in the am, zero snow, one other party on the mountain. Doesn't get much better.

They say a storm is rolling in tomorrow.


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By Trevor Roberson
From Oxnard, California
Apr 11, 2014

Any updates? I might be making it up that way on the 16th to take a friend up Whodunit, if it's dry enough. If not Coffin Nail to Traitors is the next choice!


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By Ryan Strickland
From Idyllwild, CA
Apr 11, 2014

Unless it snows again before the 16th, you should be good to go for Whodunnit. I haven't been over to the north side in a few weeks, but the west face only has sporadic patches of snow at the base. Routes are all dry. The upper pitches of Whodunnit are getting sun in mid-late afternoon, which is nice if it happens to be cool on the day of your climb. You ought to do both Whodunnit and Coffin Nail in the same day, and for good measure, throw in Open Book! That'll get you ready for some big days in the Valley.


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By Adam Burch
From San Dieger
Apr 11, 2014
you local?

Tahquitz STOKE!!11!!

Was just thinking about the Coffin/Traitor linkup last night as I dozed off. Exposure-dawg...


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By Chris G.
From San Diego, CA
Apr 11, 2014
The Gallery, Red Rocks

Took a newb up the Trough today. Mostly dry but the second pitch had a good amount of water in the cracks. It always adds spice stepping on wet rock!


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By alleyehave
From San Diego, CA
Apr 11, 2014
Start of Pitch 3

Was up today and yesterday, some snow on the north facing routes, but very minimal. Friction descent was dry..


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By Trevor Roberson
From Oxnard, California
Apr 13, 2014

Thanks everyone. Keeping my fingers crossed that plans don't fall through.


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