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Current conditions for south side of Hood 4/19/12
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By Eagleputter
Apr 16, 2012

We are heading up to climb Hood this weekend, coming up from Socal, I just wanted to know if anyone has any latest info on what the conditions are on the south side route? Are the pearly gates still the best option or should we plan on the chute to the left side or traversing all the way across to the old chute?

As well we are planning on going up and hanging out on the Mountain below Crater rock for 2 nights does anyone have any info on the best logistical place to camp so we are out of the way for day climbers? Just want to make sure we camp in the right area.

Many thanks,
Kriss


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Apr 16, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

Expect very hostile weather with very high avalanche conditions this weekend... have you checked the forecast?


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By Eagleputter
Apr 17, 2012

thanks Brian,
yeah have looked at the weather, it has been messy for the last week with temps currently low but getting higher threw the weekend, not the best conditions. but we have planned this 2 months ago...
hopefully we will get a break we have a 3 day window to hope for good weather, other wise we will do some snow cave building practice.
Do you have any suggestions on a good place for a high camp, I have read some just below crater rock but i am assuming we will have check it out for our selves once we are up there.


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Apr 17, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

What exactly are you wanting to do up there? Climb an easy route once? Try multiple routes throughout the trip?

Under Crater Rock is a good spot for avalanche consideration. If it wasn't for the very high likelihood of active avalanching, I'd suggest actually going all the way up into the crater and camping on the lower Coleman glacier. Winds are supposed to be straight out of the west- odds are wind will be less, there. But if snow slides, you're right smack in the middle of it's runout. I can't imagine a worse way to die, with your face pressed against your partner's crotch, buried under 2 meters of snow, inside a tent.

At the top of Triangle Moraine, you'll find two flower-bed shaped rises in the snow.. sort of look like graves. Under these, are two rock-walled dugouts, built for tents. Don't bother trying to dig them out- they're probably 10 feet deep.. but you should be able to cut up blocks and build up a good wind-break around the edge of the platform, and have a fairly level spot to pitch tent and cook and shit.

You gonna take wands? Make sure every member of your party knows the formula for getting back down the south side in white-out. Will probably be exciting, till it gets boring!


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By Eagleputter
Apr 17, 2012

Thanks for the beta, looking at Triangle Moraine I was worried that that is right on the trade route and we would get lots of traffic, but would be a good option if this is used by others.

As for wanding, yes, and decent plan to be worked out once we are up there, but the basics that we know right now is not to follow the fall line and keep heading around before dropping down. any extra advice?

The plan was to do easy routes up to the summit, weather permitting try something more technical, we are bringing more technical gear but not sure if we will have a chance to put it to use. First make it up and down in one piece.
Overall the goal is to workout gear and teamwork and have some fun up on mountain.


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Apr 17, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

Oddly enough, the top of Triangle Moraine actually doesn't get that many visitors. Most people hike up to climber's left of the moraine, for some reason.

But you seriously aren't gonna need to worry about traffic- there isn't going to be any up there. If the weather plays out as forecast, yours will be the only souls on the mountain above 7,000'.

As to getting down- I've personally descended in white-out, and I can tell you that when it's bad up there, you could walk within 30' of a lift tower and never see it. Right now, the upper section of the Palmer lift cable is actually hanging all the way to the top of the snow in some spots, so it will make an excellent hand-rail. I'd descend to the bottom of Triangle Moraine and then head due magnetic south till about 8,100'. The lift tops out at 8,500', but descending to 8,100 will help compensate for error. Then cut west and run into the lift cables. Once you hit the cables, you're home free.

If you're using wands, just make sure you stick them at rope-length interval from the top of Palmer all the way to your camp at the top of Triangle Moraine. You can always find the top of Triangle Moraine from higher up just by sticking to the highest line on descent- you'll end up right smack at your tent.

Good luck


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Apr 17, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

WOW... the forecast has completely 180'd.... looks like it'll be unpleasantly windy, but otherwise clear and warm. I just might see you guys up there


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By Tom Fralich
From Fort Collins, CO
Apr 23, 2012

Eagleputter wrote:
...not the best conditions. but we have planned this 2 months ago...


This is a mentality that often leads to disaster.


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By Aaron479
Apr 24, 2012

Tom,
You seem to have some knowledge...so, I pose a question to you. Do you quit when the going gets tough? Or, do you make smart decisions when the mountain speaks to you? For all that looked through the thread without judgement...Had a great two days on Hood. Weather was nice, too nice in fact. We, along with many others turned back @ the hogsback. Had a great night on the hill above triangle, and enjoyed the mountain. Sometimes you just gotta' give er' a go. I am glad we did.
But, seriously Tom. You plan a trip and the weather goes south...do you cancel your vacation?
Thanks Ben for the weather updates and the beta !!!


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