Between Western and The Only Way is Cracked Wall's classic project route for those breaking into the 5.12 scene. It has gotten harder over the years b/c of broken holds. Mostly done on TR it's a scary lead if it's you're first 5.12.
3 bolts to Only Way anchors
|Comments on Curley Shuffle
|By Chris Nosti|
Jan 23, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Great route for practicing those 5.12 moves, even if there is only one.........great for top roping and letting the whole group try.
|By Chris Bersbach|
From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
Local legend is that it's harder than it was originally b/c of a broken hold. I've never seen it any different than its current state, but I've only been playing on it for a few years. I scoped the whole line on TR today, and the section past the crux is stellar, somewhat making up for the crux being right off the deck, not a particularly inspiring move, and pretty painful. The lead would be clean-ish, providing that you have the reach to clip bolt #2 *before* pulling the crux. There's also a pocket that would take a medium nut between bolts #2 and #3 (and if you get there on a clean lead, you'll likely want to take advantage of that chance for pro).
|By Aaron InternetHardman Stireman|
Nov 18, 2013
Clip bolt 2 at your waist, after doing the crux. Don't worry, that spinning quarter inch first bolt is bomber, lots of folks have 'tested' it.