|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Joe Ramos on Sep 1, 2002|
|Comments on Curley Shuffle||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Chris Nosti
Jan 23, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
|Great route for practicing those 5.12 moves, even if there is only one.........great for top roping and letting the whole group try.|
By Chris Bersbach
From: Arroyo Grande, CA
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|Local legend is that it's harder than it was originally b/c of a broken hold. I've never seen it any different than its current state, but I've only been playing on it for a few years. I scoped the whole line on TR today, and the section past the crux is stellar, somewhat making up for the crux being right off the deck and pretty painful. There's a pocket that takes a red tricam between bolts #2 and #3.|
By Internet Hardman
Nov 18, 2013
|Clip bolt 2 at your waist, after doing the crux. Don't worry, that spinning quarter inch first bolt is bomber, lots of folks have 'tested' it.|
By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Jun 14, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Current hardware details: The first bolt's SS SMC hanger spins and is bent a bit. The bolt is a 3/8" sleeve anchor, probably a Rawl "5-piece." It's still strong however as I've seen 3 people, myself included, fall on it several times. Give a good soft catch on this bolt, little hop, as it's damaging to the rope. Bolts 2 & 3 are also 3/8", "5-piece" sleeve anchors. An old Kong Italy hanger on the 2nd bolt. I would like to replace the bolts soon, they could use it better sooner than later. I think bolts are carbon steel and hangers are stainless. On 06/07/2015, bolt 2 was tightened but remains a bit loose due to the rock beneath the hanger not being flat, hanger on bolt 3 was previously tweaked sideways out of position, the hanger was repositioned. The bent hanger on bolt 1 prevents a socket from gaining the hex head so an open faced wrench will be needed to tighten it. Addition of a washer and some loktite would help.
Protection Beta: the second clip can be made after hitting the left hand crimp just left of bolt 2, but it's hard to do. It may be better to make the next couple moves to a better right hand then clip just above the waste. Either way, don't blow the second clip or the moves after the left-hand crimp before clipping. If you do, prepare to absorb the shock of hitting the slope below. Try a Red Tricam in the pocket in camming mode with point facing left. I've also seen it proed with a C4. Your hand will be where you want your pro. Stay cool and make one more move right to the jug and a good stance to fiddle in gear. There is an option to climb to the right at the top to clip a bolt on Fly Away and protect the runout at the top, unless your pride gets in the way like mine did.
Very fun, albeit mentally challenging route with many sequence options for getting through the crux. Bring your crimp strength and pay close attention to your feet.