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O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)
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Xerophyte 5.8 T 
Zenith T 
1000' of Fun T 
1200' of more Fun T 
Blockbuster. T 
Cat Walk. T 
Cat's Me-ow., The T,S 
Comedy of Errors T 
Crack, The T 
Curiosity Killed The Cat T 
Curiosity Killed the Rat T,S 
Fall Not T 
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Hollow Men, The T 
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Perhaps Not T 
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Rat Catcher T 
Rat in the Hat T,S 
Rat Trap T,S 
Reptilian Curiosity T 
Sprogg's Day Out T 
Team 500 T 
Top Hat on the Rat. T 
Tread Lightly.  T,S 
Wilting Flower, The T,S 
Ziggurat 5.11 T 

Curiosity Killed The Cat 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1110', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Rydalch, Paul Ross (var leads) June 13th 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,469
Submitted By: USBRIT on Jun 16, 2009

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Knarly rock near the top of the route.

Description 

A fine route with great situations. Starts up the long line of left leaning pot holes.

P1)Climb to a bolt at 25' . Continue past a total of six pro bolts to double anchors. 170'5.9.
P2)Climb steeply up three holes then traverse right passed one bolt to another line of pot holes ,follow this line passed one more bolt to block belays on a large ledge.180'5.7+
P3)Drop down onto the white slab ,climb up to the right and follow easy slab to natural anchors below the steep groove system .Natural belay.200'5.4 no pro.
P4)Enter the groove from the right and follow the left exposed edge with difficulty ..Total of three bolts and some cam placements to ledge and natural belay.180'5.9+.
P5)Scramble up right to a smooth v groove up this at its top a bolt (this bolt was placed on the FA of Raptilian Curiosity that comes up from the open groove down to the left.) this protects a 5.8 move over to the ridge on the right.Contine up easy ground to natural belay.200'5.8.
P6)Easy climbing along the left side of the ridge to junction with the top of 1000'of Fun.180'

Descent.:- Five raps down 1000' of Fun


Location 

Drive to the entrance of Three Finger Canyon.The climb is located on the south side (to the left ) on the "1000' Feet Of Fun" formation. Starts about 150' to the right of the very impressive line of Reptilian Curiosity.


Protection 

Camalots #.4 #.5 #.75#1 #2 #3 Slings,Quick draws. Two 60m ropes.



Photos of Curiosity Killed The Cat Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Kinney about to make the 5.8 move on pitch 5.
Mike Kinney about to make the 5.8 move on pitch 5.
Mike Kinney at the 2nd bolt of Pitch 1.
Mike Kinney at the 2nd bolt of Pitch 1.
First pitch.
First pitch.
Steve top of first pitch
Steve top of first pitch
Steve starting the first pitch.
Steve starting the first pitch.
Satisfaction brought it back
Satisfaction brought it back
The Route. A)Reptilian Curiosity.5.11R B) Curiosity Killed the Cat.5.9+
BETA PHOTO: The Route. A)Reptilian Curiosity.5.11R B) Curiosit...
The bottom of pitch 4.
The bottom of pitch 4.
Steve on the belay of pitch two
Steve on the belay of pitch two
Steve topping out pitch two
Steve topping out pitch two
Steve starting pitch three
Steve starting pitch three
After a hard day at the office. That cat sure is fast!
After a hard day at the office. That cat sure is f...
At the anchors at the end of pitch 1.
At the anchors at the end of pitch 1.
The Routes :-A)Reptilian Cruriosity 5.11R.B)Curiosity Killed the Cat.5.9. .C)Cat Walk.5.7.D)Cats Me-ow 5.10. Photo. Ben Folsom
BETA PHOTO: The Routes :-A)Reptilian Cruriosity 5.11R.B)Curios...
Pitch three.... very pleasant slab. The steep groove of pitch four is above the climber.
Pitch three.... very pleasant slab. The steep groo...
Steve on the crux section of pitch four.
Steve on the crux section of pitch four.
The really fun pitch 3.
The really fun pitch 3.
Looking down to the entrance of Three Finger Canyon
Looking down to the entrance of Three Finger Canyo...
First part of pitch 5.
First part of pitch 5.
On the summit ridge
On the summit ridge
At the top..with no sign of cataplexy ....yet
At the top..with no sign of cataplexy ....yet
Dan Monroe at the start of the crux on P4
Dan Monroe at the start of the crux on P4
Comments on Curiosity Killed The Cat Add Comment
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By Dan Monroe
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 16, 2010

Had a blast on this route. I led pitch 4 which was really exciting! Certainly had to keep my head in the game moving up on small feet while looking straight down a ways on my left side. If you like "heady" leads grab this pitch. Pitch three is a real delight with all the features/edges to use. My partner got that one which he earned after leading pitch one. Nice route guys!

By Alex Wood
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Mar 26, 2012

Climbed the first pitch of this route after 1000' of fun. We replaced the anchors atop the first pitch on 3-16-2012. Wish we would have know that it kept going!

By Eric Odenthal
Dec 6, 2012

climbed the first pitch. fun climbing, bolts are in very odd places, wouldn't help much. 40 foot runout to the anchors from the last bolt... wonder if a bolt fell out... most bolts in the area move. should have used 1/2" x 4 RAWL instead.

By apross
Dec 6, 2012

"most bolts in the area move".
How many bolts and on which routes are you talking about? Thats quite the comment as there are ALOT of bolts down there.
What other routes have you done of the nearly 200 routes?. We only hear of people doing the same old half dozen or so time after time in the whole Reef area.
Could you please report in the comment section of all the routes you have noticed loose bolts to help us and future climbers out.

As far as this route and all routes down there the bolt placements are done on the lead. Its all about where you can stop and put one in and sure sometimes they are in odd places. Have not heard of any bolts falling out so im sure it was just runout to the anchor. Will check it out next time im in 3 Finger.
Lastly, we figured 3/8 x 4" would be fine for slab climbing.

It might be a good idea to carry a spanner/metolius nut tool with hex heads and I will note that on the Slabs home page. Thanks for the heads up.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Dec 6, 2012

Only a forty foot runout did not realized we put the bolts in that close.Actually its sad really that many climbers these days are still insisting on doing one pitch climbs..This is a good example of a route that has SIX pitches.Maybe there is an epidemic going around of acrophobia?