Curiosity Killed the Cat
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|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb & Peter Spindloe, 6/29/03|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jun 29, 2003|
Curiosity Killed the Cat was a name chosen to reflect upon the day's advneture, new-routeing at this crag, a reflection upon the natural tendency to want to explore new places, new lines, and to do the undone... and as an unitended consequence sometimes get into undesireable situations (refer to: "Carpet Bombing")For this particular route, it is mostly good rock and there were no "bombs" coming off duriing the FA- in fact, the rock on this route is solid if you take the most runout line...
Walk up the cliffline to the toe of a massive, solid slab. From a point near the low point, climb up and progressively right to reach a point below a crumbling overhang, continue up and right below this, passign it when possible, then working up and right under a beautiful boiler-plate face.Some thought was given to climbing this face, but it would have been suicide with no cleaning of the lichen on small sloping holds with no gear... it would someday make a great sport climb or two, aking to Gravity's Angel or Blows Against the Empire, if cleaned and bolted- or otherwise more like one of Sharps' heady climbs up on the Veil...
Climb up and right below this face toward a short left facing corner system. there are a few diagonal cracks and flakes here, and distantly spaced 3" horizontal steps. You can set a few small (good) nuts down behind a solid flake, then undercling up and right, tehen up and left onto slopers to reach the huge steps on the left (heady 5.9+) and access the face again.Climb up to the top of the crag and belay some distance back by some trees, being careful not to knock rockss down a gully you will cross on the way to the belay.
This route is of a moderate grade, but is "old school" and could be made much easier or harder depending on the exact line chosen. It is certainly runout and even a little sporty at some hard reaches and mantel-moves. It is appropriate as a heady climb for advanced climbers, and is a reasonably fun route.
To descend, scramble up about 100meters to the SW and then scramble down a reasonable descent where the cliff is short, then walk back to your packs.
This route is quite runout, although a certain amount of wandering may get you to more good placements (or easier climbing). Take a standard light rack of nuts and cams.
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